Sabah's Lost Worlds
Even today, Sabah’s dense rainforests still hold a few secrets; Borneo’s lost worlds, many miles from the rush of our ‘always on’ cities. As you move away from Kota Kinabalu’s energetic streets, you traverse mountain passes, skirt some of Sabah’s oldest settlements and head deep into the jungle. When the roads and villages run out, you’ll find yourself in some of Asia’s most remote spots, from the extraordinarily untouched Maliau Basin to the outlying Sapulot region.
Visiting these regions goes far beyond any notion of the usual route, offering you a rare pathway into places that only a handful of outsiders will ever visit. It’s intrepid travel at a distinctly direct and unadorned level, with the naturally pared-back amenities balanced by the truly out-of-this-world experience. Many ventures describe themselves as off the beaten track, but this is the real deal.
Whether you choose to focus on hiking through Maliau’s unparalleled terrain, or opt to gain a deeper insight into Murat culture in Sapulot, expand your Borneo experience with dedicated orangutan conservation in action in Sepilok, a winding venture down the Kinabatangan River by longboat, and down-time on a secluded stretch of one of Borneo’s stunning beaches to balance the rugged rainforest days.
Exploring the ends of the Earth...
Being almost entirely encircled by imposing mountains, a preliminary expedition team only entered the Maliau Basin in 1982, and it remains one of Borneo’s least-explored rainforests; only a fortunate few ever make it to this pristine stretch, even today. The area requires special permission to visit, and facilities are very basic - think bare bones accommodation and jungle camps with simple food, basic beds and bunks, cold water showers and limited electricity.
Roughing it for a few nights is more than worth it to access this part of the world and all it holds; if you’ve got an appetite for adventure this experience is second to none. Home to an abundance of rare wildlife, a staggering diversity of flora and a number of brand new species have been identified to date. In a region larger than the entirety of Singapore, who's to say what else is yet to be discovered?
Days in Maliau are spent following your guides on undulating treks through the undergrowth with the forest canopy towering above you, pulling yourself up on ropes to tackle particularly steep sections. The rewards for your endeavours are spectacular panoramic views over the Basin. This area has the highest density of waterfalls in Malaysia, with the 7-tiered Maliau Falls being the largest and most impressive. It’s an ideal place to picnic, take in the scenery, and cool off with a swim in the tea-coloured, mineral rich waters - an undeniably memorable experience.
A step out of time…
Alongside being an area of extreme wild beauty, Sapulot is home to the Murut community, one of the oldest tribes of Borneo with a heritage as warriors and headhunters. Life in this remote region has changed and shifted over time, but still retains a sense of deep tradition and connection to the land that has been lost from many modern cultures. Founded by Richard Gunting, a Murut tribe descendant, the Orou Sapulot project was initiated to help protect and preserve the flora and fauna of this vulnerable region of rainforest, and to support the Murat communities who watch over it. Time spent here feels precious; a rare opportunity to explore the landscape and learn about Murut culture through the work of the project.
In Sapulot, time passes differently, linked to a deeper, more intuitive pace rather than the man-made march of the clock. See stalactites and stalagmite formations that pay testament to the slow, powerful rhythms in nearby caves, and explore how communities have interacted with the landscape for generations at Batu Punggal: a limestone pinnacle and sacred site, dotted with caves, that rises out of the jungle. The adventurous can climb the 300 metres to the top for magnificent views over the canopy. After the sun goes down, head back to your welcoming Murat homestay to chat, watch a little dancing and enjoy communal longhouse feasts; an immersive taste of daily life in a truly far-flung part of Borneo.
Selamat datang (Welcome) to Kota Kinabalu
Whether at the start or end of your adventure, you’ll almost certainly pass through Sabah’s capital city. Often known as ‘KK’, Kota Kinabalu might lack the high profile and distinctive character of some of Asia’s better known metropolises, but is swiftly developing to take advantage of its waterside location and mountain backdrop. Although some of the architecture is a little ‘concretey’ and increasingly high rise, it’s one of those cities where visitors tend to be pleasantly surprised.
Not everyone chooses to stay in the city itself, with many favouring the nearby beaches, but the capital’s highlights include the Atkinson Clock Tower (Kota Kinabalu's oldest colonial-era building), the iconic floating mosque, bustling markets, and a pleasant waterfront area with ample bars, night markets and restaurants serving super-fresh seafood. If you’ve still got an adventurous itch to scratch, you can attempt to reach the summit of Mt Kinabalu, one of South-East Asia’s highest peaks. Climbers with a reasonable level of fitness can ascend from tropical lowlands and mossy forests to alpine meadows, dominated by the jagged granite peaks of the mountain rising over 13,000 feet towards the sky.
It’s a jungle out there…
A few days in the rainforest wilds, a couple of nights in Kota Kinabalu and a sojourn on a nearby beach is more than enough to fill one visit to Borneo, but for those with more time, Sabah has plenty to offer. A short flight from Kota Kinabalu takes you to Sandakan and the nearby Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, which is famous for its rehabilitation work with young orphaned and injured animals. Watch the youngest orangutans from behind one-way glass as they play in the nursery, and head out to the feeding platforms to spot older animals, who live wild in the reserve, venture in for a guaranteed source of food.
From there, longboats wait to glide you through some of the wildlife hotspots of the Kinabatangan River. Cruise along at a leisurely place, watching the banks for glimpses of Borneo’s diverse wildlife making its way down to the water’s edge. Alternatively, jump into a jeep and head deep into the towering rainforests of the Danum Valley to spend immersive nights in the rainforest and wander high in the canopy along treetop walkways...
Tropical beaches & island hideaways
The best trip is a balanced one, designed to bring you home fulfilled, refreshed and revitalised. At the end of a full-on expedition, such as this, we’d highly recommend including a few days’ dedicated relaxation time, which is something that Borneo’s glorious beaches provide beautifully well. Not everyone is a beach person, and what we’re really aiming for with ‘beach’ is balance; all our trips are individually tailored, and there are many different ways to achieve that.
If you do opt for relaxation by the sea, there are several idyllic spots on the mainland, and on nearby Gaya Island, all within easy reach of Kota Kinabalu, with no more long drives, trekking or longboats required! If your thirst for adventure is still going strong, you can continue the exploration by diving into the waters of the nearby Tunku Abdul Rahman National Marine Park for an insight into another very different world.
A note on cost…
Whilst your accommodation in the Maliau Basin or Sapulot is basic and then some, you’re not going there for 4-poster beds and room service. However, elsewhere on this journey we would recommend that you balance this out with a little more style. So for £4,390US$5,790 per person (not including international flights), along with 4 nights in various camps spread across the Maliau conservation area, we would typically suggest that you divide (beginning and end) a total of 4 nights on the beaches near Kota Kinabalu, 1 night in Lahad Datu, 1 night at Sepilok and 2 nights on the Kinabatangan River.
