Vietnam Holidays

Con Dao is an archipelago of 16 islands whose sea-turtles are protected by marine national park status, and its Six Senses hotel is rated amongst the finest resorts in Asia. The island of Phu Quoc, with its lovely beaches and excellent seafood, is also largely protected by national park status, and is home to macaques and hornbills. Up the coast to the north, the low-key shoreline around Quy Nhon also offers some of Vietnam’s best beaches.

Hoi An - or rather, nearby Cua Dai - also used to be a beach destination, but the sand has been so heavily eroded that the beach has vanished, so we don’t recommend it. Hoi An itself has a reputation for being incredibly picturesque. It certainly has an antique charm but this is somewhat squashed by the crowds of visitors, many of whom stay at the highly developed town of Danang just up the road. Nevertheless, the historic town is still electricity-free after dark, and we can tell you where to find a quiet candlelit spot to enjoy some of the finest food in the country.

The Mekong Delta offers an alternative place for R&R. Although its famous floating markets have become tourist-focused, you need only head into the backwaters to find the slow pace and rural lifestyles that make this region so attractive. Take a private sampan to witness the Delta residents’ extraordinary ease on the water as they leap from boat to boat, and cycle amongst the paddy fields for a glimpse of Vietnam’s ‘rice bowl’ in action. 

To really immerse yourself in the Delta rhythm, we recommend a couple of nights in a local homestay. However, the region can also be reached from Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon. Here a gleaming modern skyline has risen amongst the ornate colonial buildings, yet down every back alley you’ll find the homely bustle of streetfood stalls and daily life. Whether you sip a cocktail in a sky bar or zip between streetfood markets on the back of a Vespa, you’ll get a scintillating taste of contemporary Vietnamese city life. 

Just outside HCMC, you can visit the famous Cu Chi tunnels, the site of claustrophobic combat during the Vietnam War. They are quite touristy, and we find the Vinh Moc tunnels more interesting. These sheltered an entire village of people, and are situated just north of the old Imperial city, Hue. Although the city was heavily damaged during the war, its fortified citadel is still a highlight, along with several historic highlights. Outside town, you’ll find lovely rural scenery with great caving in a complex of limestone caverns. Incidentally, if caves are your thing, we recommend a trip inland to hidden gem Phong Nha, a tremendous cave system with underground rivers and kayaking.

Fantastic food is one of Vietnam’s major highlights, and we love to wander the pavements of Hanoi to sniff out the most fragrant pho from a streetside vendor. The chaotic capital is also a great place to immerse yourself in a Vietnamese cookery class, so you can recreate your favourite dishes when you get home. Find calm with the early morning tai chi community around Hoan Kiem Lake, and shop in chic little boutiques in the old quarter. 

Several scenic areas lie close to Hanoi. The famously ‘iconic’ Halong Bay, with its stunning jungle-topped limestone karsts and traditional junk boats, is awash with visitors. We recommend taking a private boat into the backwaters where the tourist cruises cannot follow, or heading along the coast to find equally stunning scenery without the crowds. 

Just inland, the evocative scenery of Ninh Binh is known as ‘Halong on land’ thanks to its huge limestone crags and dramatic rural vistas. We like to join a local family homestay to learn some age-old farming techniques and cookery skills. For wildlife enthusiasts, the Ninh Binh province is also home to Cuc Phuong National Park, a gorgeous area that is home to primates, turtles and colourful birds. Mountainous Mai Chau is another stunning place to experience rural life within easy reach of Hanoi. Home to many of Vietnam’s ethnic minorities, its hilltop eco-lodges and picturesque scenery are ideal for trekking and cycling. 

If that doesn’t seem remote enough for your tastes, head far to the mountainous northern borderlands, which are famous for their hilltribes and community markets. The best known market town is Sapa, but this has become so touristy that we don’t recommend it unless you plan to visit an eco-lodge out of town. Instead we prefer Ha Giang, where rice terraces stretch for miles along misty mountainsides, and you can trek through ancient rural landscapes that have endured for centuries.