From Field to Pho

We love the thrill that comes from getting even a little way off the well-trodden routes, and in ever-popular Vietnam it’s areas like Mu Cang Chai and Ha Giang that offer the best opportunities to do that. Although gradually starting to open up to more visitors, their remote locations and journey-intense routes set natural limits, meaning that the rewards of these areas are still the preserve of the intrepid few, and this route takes you to the very top of northern Vietnam and its border with China. As with so many things in travel, the more you put into this experience, the more you’ll get out.

It’s important to be prepared for long journeys and simple accommodation, although the roads and hotels in these areas are improving all the time. Discuss with us how to fit these extraordinary destinations any tailor-made Vietnam itinerary, and take a look at the route below to get you thinking about the shape of your trip…

The rewards of the less-trodden path…

So, exactly what are these rewards for leaving the comfortable, well-worn travel trail? Well, for starters, there’s the truly spectacular scenery - arguably some of Vietnam’s finest. Imagine high clouds, undulating horizons, rice terraces clinging precariously to the hillsides, jagged limestone peaks, and rivers snaking through valleys below. Every stop is likely to provide a humdinger of a view. In your mind’s eye, dot that perfectly-imagined landscape with the traditional villages of some of Vietnam’s 54 different minority communities. You’re likely to encounter members of the Hmong, Thai and Pa Then communities, amongst others, each having their own unique culture, customs, and traditional dress. 

Rippling Valleys of Vivid Green

Mu Cang Chai pretty much defines ‘off the usual trail’. Despite being a relatively popular place for Vietnamese travellers to head for, it still remains a very quiet and unspoilt region where the rhythms of local farming life go on unchanged at their core for centuries.

This far northern region is perfect for keen walkers and trekkers, too, with plenty of routes to choose from, depending on how energetic (or not) you might be feeling. Navigate your way through this beautiful landscape and get closer to the lives of the people who inhabit it, exploring on foot through rice terraced valleys dotted with villages. When the sun goes down, get cosy in a simple, high-quality ecolodge that’s dedicated to maintaining a light footprint within its stunning natural surroundings.

Towards the border…

Ha Giang is amongst the least visited destinations in Vietnam and, due to its remote location, has only become accessible to travellers in more recent years. Traditional cultures remain very strong in the Ha Giang region and visitors from outside Vietnam are still much rarer than in other places. It's a fresh, tangible way to see a different side to the country, and learn about its intricate and complex cultural diversity.

Wander through the weekly markets, where traders from the surrounding communities gather to sell everything from livestock to embroidery, and locals come to barter, gossip and enjoy the ambience. These aren’t in any way tourist-centric, but are an essential, and sociable, part of life in these remote regions.

Misty mountains & stunning scenery

Sapa is a stunning region of mountains and rice terraces, home to several traditional communities including Black H’mong, Tay and Xa Pho, and just a short distance from Fansipan: Vietnam’s highest peak. Sapa has been connected by railway to Hanoi since 1906, and as Vietnam opened up to the world it became one of the most popular stops for visitors to the country. Its popularity has been reinforced by the recent opening of the expressway from Hanoi, and the cable car taking visitors to the summit of Fansipan.

Our top suggestion for avoiding the crowds is to stay at a rustic lodge in the Sapa Valley, high on a hillside overlooking yet more picture-perfect scenery. Follow hiking or cycling pathways into the surrounding countryside, to local villages, remote waterfalls or even the foothills of Mt. Silverstone. Learn about the surrounding landscape from those whose families have lived in the area for generations; gain an insight into the local lifestyles, traditional remedies and herbal medicines; and watch local artisans weaving, embroidering, and creating elaborate silver jewellery.

And don’t ‘pho’get Hanoi...

Whichever rural region you choose to explore afterwards, you’re almost certain to begin your trip among the lively streets of Hanoi. As the city continues to transform itself into a cutting-edge capital and cultural hub, its history is being combined with a fresh energy. It’s exhilarating to feel part of, even for a moment. This vibrant city shows a side to Vietnam that seems very far from the serene, traditional, and undeniably tough, day-to-day life of the rural north. Hanoi has a rich history, from the Old Quarter that branches off from the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake to the Temple of Literature, the grandiose French Quarter, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. 

We always enthusiastically recommend devoting some time to tasting everything that Hanoi has to offer, too! From the region’s famed (and supremely comforting) phở noodle soup, banh cuon rice rolls and banh goi meat pastries, to contemporary and innovative Asian fusion dishes, our guides will show you the city’s very best street food specialities. Alternatively, you can treat yourself to dinner in a more luxurious setting; the city is your oyster!