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Rhinos & Rhododendrons

The landscapes of Nepal’s isolated mountain kingdom are surprisingly varied. Taking an alternative approach to a classic combination, this journey contrasts the rich history of Bhaktapur and the heady, hectic streets of Kathmandu with the open savannah of Chitwan National Park. Slow down to search for tigers and rhinos amid the wilderness, before strapping up your boots for a light trek between two atmospheric lodges in the Himalayan foothills around Pokhara. Travelling between a handful of Nepal’s headline destinations by road rather than air keeps the journeys more sustainable, and creates extra sparks of spontaneity which can turn a good trip into an outstanding one.

Kathmandu, Boudhanath
Kathmandu
Durbar Square, Kathmandu
Elephant bathing at Chitwan National Park
A ranger driving a horse and kart at Chitwan National Park
Chitwan National Park
Pewa Lake, Pokhara
Pavilions lakeside in Pokhara, Nepal
Trekking in Nepal
Nepalese weaver
Nepal landscape

The white-peaked Himalayas dominate Nepal’s skyline magnificently, but there are also lush lowlands, jungle-clad foothills, deep river valleys, and even the rain-starved deserts of little-visited Upper Mustang to explore. Throw into the mix a few congested, labyrinthine cities and some of Asia’s more challenging terrains, and you can see why a trip to Nepal needs careful planning and expertise.

Stories on every street

Make a soft start in Bhaktapur to acclimatise and regroup with ease before exploring the region’s history. Bhaktapur is one of the three former royal cities of the Kathmandu Valley, and the stories of its rich past and heritage infuse every stone. Although many buildings were sadly destroyed during the 2015 earthquake, the city still boasts more temples than neighbouring Kathmandu and is home to some of the finest religious architecture in Nepal.

Wander through the maze of narrow streets and looking out for signs of the city’s eventful past and deep culture: courtyards are filled with fired clay pots, women sit weaving cloth, and craftsmen carefully chisel timber into furniture and statues. Wood carving has been a hallmark of the Kathmandu Valley for hundreds of years. Rooted in Hindu and Buddhist traditions, Newari carvings include intricate floral patterns, animals, deities, religious symbols, and geometric designs, adorning temples, houses, and monuments across the valley. Get hands on in a workshop with a local woodwork artisan, who will guide you through the techniques and teach you to carve the delicate designs.

Into the wild...

Chitwan National Park, covering almost 1,000 square kilometres at the foot of the Himalayas, provides lush habitats for a huge array of flora and fauna. A handful of committed eco-lodges offer cosy places to stay, including the Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge which definitely stands out from the crowd. The lodge combines sustainability with an impressive guest experience, giving you time to kick back, breathe deep, and immerse yourself in your wild surroundings. A particular highlight is walking into the park behind the lodge’s rescued elephants as they make their way gently through their natural habitat.

The National Park’s most famous residents are also some of the hardest to spot: the elusive Bengal tigers that lurk in the deeper forests, and the endangered greater one-horned rhino. However, with an experienced tracker as your guide, you’ll have a good chance of a rhino sighting, and if you’re lucky, perhaps a flash of striped, flame-coloured fur through the trees...

The scenic route

Nepal is justly famed for its trekking, and it has to be one of the ultimate places in the world to do it. However, you don’t necessarily need to pack a tent and disappear into the peaks for a week! Day hikes gives you a taste of the region’s legendary terrain at a gentler pace, with options to suit different energy levels and hiking experience. Hike to Sarangkot Hill for the most incredible view of the Annapurnas, or set out for Begnas Lake and the small settlement overlooking the awe-inspiring range for a glimpse of life in one of Nepal's remote, traditional communities.

The route between two of our favourite properties, the twin Pavilions Himalayas, allows you to dip your toes into Nepal’s famous trekking waters whilst enjoying refreshing respite at either end. The first Pavilions Himalaya, set on an organic farm in Pokhara is a serene place to spend a couple of nights soaking up the bucolic mountain scenery, while a few hours’ hike away, via slopes often blanketed in blooming rhododendrons, the Pavilions Himalayas Lake View gives you space to unwind in lakeside alpine bliss. Picturesque peaks, low-lying lakes, and small villages appear in all their glory along the way, so keep your camera primed.

A feast for the senses

Kathmandu is always a sensory overload, even for those who’ve visited before, but there are plenty of ways to step back from the rush. Explore the less-visited quarters where rickshaws, bicycles and vendors crowd narrow streets lined with stalls selling everything from ceramic pots to pashminas. Feast on street food in the bustling markets, and enjoy a cup of lassi or a cool beer in side-street cafes as you soak up the atmosphere and watch the comings and goings of daily life. Soothe your senses with a sound bath meditation treatment and thali dinner: the perfect way to unwind after a few days trekking.

If you’ve got an extra night to spare, head an hour’s drive out of the city for a breath of fresh air at the Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery Guest House. Built beside a working monastery, the hotel is infused with a sense of serenity and peace, giving guests a taste of Himalayan monastic life as you dine and meditate alongside the monks. It’s the kind of spiritual simplicity you begin to crave when surrounded by these legendary mountains.

Dig deeper…

If you have more time to spend in Nepal, we’d recommend a couple of nights stay, or an artisan experience, with the Community Homestay Network: a collective of locally-run properties welcoming guests to get a glimpse of daily life in rural Nepal. These properties are in parts of the country that are well off the usual tourist trail, offering you the chance to experience a different side to Nepalese culture. Take cookery and craft classes, enjoy home-cooked regional dishes, and follow cycle trails through the beautiful countryside.

A note on cost…

The guide price of £2,290US$2,990 is a per person price (not including international flights) staying 2 nights in Bhaktapur, 3 nights in Chitwan National Park, 3 nights in Pokhara and 2 nights in Kathmandu all in our favourite mid-range hotels.

What's included in your Selective Asia holiday

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