Another Bali

Beginning among the tranquil rice terraces and palm trees of Umabian, travel to the island’s west coast to breathe in the salty air on the calm sands of Pekutatan before turning inland to the cool highland village of Munduk to soak in the scenery. Hop on two wheels to pedal along Bali’s winding inland byways by bike at a gentle pace, staying in a family home along the way. Give the hectic streets of Ubud a brief brush if you wish, avoiding the peak crowds as much as possible, before exploring the sleepy riverside life of the Sidemen valley in the foothills of Mount Agung. Finish on the striking volcanic sands of Bali’s east coast, snorkelling over the reefs and shipwreck just offshore.

Rice field retreat

Umabian might not be a name that trips off many travellers’ lips, but it’s a beautiful and honest place to begin exploring Bali. Vibrant rice terraces ripple out through the surrounding hills, tended by local farmers just as they have been for generations, and its gentle rhythms tick by reassuringly, like the gears of a well-worn clock. It's a very different world from Ubud or the south coast beach resorts.

Take time to relax and regroup in a tranquil property inspired by traditional local architecture, exploring the surrounding landscape, and learning more about life in rural Bali, including the ingenious Subak irrigation system - a great example of living in harmony with the environment. Within easy reach, on a small offshore island, sits Bali’s most well-known sea temple: Tanah Lot. Just 100 metres off the coast and only accessible during low tide, this temple offers insight into a culture where the ocean’s potential to shape all aspects of coastal life is seen as divine.

Beyond the postcards

Bali is famed for its beaches, but finding just the right stretch of coastline to explore, without the crowds, can take a little knowhow. This journey takes in two different points along Bali’s shores, offering dual perspectives on the nature and culture of this island nation, and two chances to enjoy some beachside downtime. The first is in Pekutatan, a quiet stretch of sand near a small fishing village where few visitors, other than dedicated surfers, ever pause. Time spent here is about settling into a different pace: long walks along the golden beach, sea views, spa time, and of course surfing. Even beginners can have a go on a surfboard, if that appeals! From a selection of boutique resort villas, each one sheltered by palms and just moments from the water, venture further along the coast to watch local fishermen at work, visit village markets, and see the craft of local artisans created in real time.

Emerald Munduk

The sounds of the sea fade away as you turn inland towards Munduk in Bali’s central highlands. This quiet village nestles in one of Bali’s most beautiful spots, surrounded by the green curves of the rice terraces leading into dense jungle and rolling hills. It’s the perfect place to switch off from the hustle and bustle and allow yourself to fully infuse in your rural surroundings. This landscape is far from static, however, as farmers tending to their crops of coffee, rice, cacao and cloves create a steady thrum of activity.

Explore the region on foot, taking trails through farmland and villages, and trek to Lake Tamblingan to head out onto the calm water in a handcrafted canoe. Enjoy a picnic beside a forest waterfall, cooking classes with local experts, and holistic treatments to soothe body and soul. Spend peaceful evenings eating locally grown produce and watching the sunset over the surrounding fields. This is the rural Bali we all have in our mind’s eye; it just takes a little finding.

Tranquility on two wheels

Hopping onto a bike is where this journey really comes into its own, bringing you closer to the landscapes and the people who live within them. With an experienced cycling guide leading the way, enjoy two days of riding along accessible roads and rural tracks. Much of the terrain allows for downhill riding, the pace is unhurried, and your guide can adjust each distance to suit.

Stay overnight in a traditional Balinese family home, adapted by the owners to welcome travellers. These kinds of homestay aren’t common in Bali, so it’s a special opportunity to experience real day-to-day life on the island. Explore the area with your guide, hearing local stories of village life through the years, visit the family temple and enjoy proper home-cooked meals, Bali-style.

Beyond Ubud

If you’re keen to see the reality of Ubud for yourself, pause to see the city’s buzz up close on your night in the region en route to Sidemen, but it’s not a must - while the surrounding hills are beautiful, overtourism has definitely become an issue in Ubud itself. Head east, away from those crowds, to the Sidemen valley in the foothills of Mount Agung. Although it’s only a couple of hours from some of Bali’s busier hubs, this area offers a more tranquil experience of Balinese life. Enjoy another angle on the island’s gorgeous scenery, including hidden waterfalls reached by rough tracks, and stop for lunch in simple local warung eateries.

If you’d like to make the adrenaline pump a little, head out rafting on the Telaga Waja River - an activity that’s suitable for any degree of rafting experience from beginners up, but still has plenty of thrills for those looking for a bit more excitement. Really keen nature lovers can even enjoy an optional trip down to the coast to Candidasa to join a local marine biologist and go behind the scenes of an ongoing coral conservation project.

Seaside stillness

The last stop on this gentle journey takes you to the coast again, to the rugged, dark volcanic sands of the island’s east coast. The drama of the black sand meeting the blue sea is spellbinding, displaying a different side to the coastal beauty coin than the standard golden sands imagery. The area is a fantastic find for anyone wanting to dive or snorkel, with coral reefs just offshore and the possibility of a wreck dive around the USAT Liberty, a Second World War cargo vessel now home to vibrant marine life including schools of jackfish, blue-spotted stingrays, scorpion fish and moray eels.

Stay close to the working fishing villages of Amed or Tulamben and watch the boats heading out at dawn, returning with their bounty later in the day. A world away from Kuta’s modern glitz and high-energy nightlife, these coastal spots simply offer a scattering of boutique beachside properties, perfect for relaxing to the sound of the waves after a day on or under the water.