By May, you're into pre-monsoon season in Nepal. Humidity is building and there's a higher chance of rain. Down on Nepal’s plains it's hot and sweaty by mid-afternoon with temperatures in the mid-30’s. Cloud can sweep rapidly across the skies producing sudden sharp downpours. But after the rain comes coolness and respite. Greenery is at its lushest at this time of year, and there's a wonderful earthy scent to the air.
So, don't think May is a bad month to visit Nepal. The rainfall is infrequent and the overcast skies often provide more textured light which is ideal for landscape photography. The scenery is still full of colour from myriad wildflowers and the temperatures at higher altitudes make trekking a delight. There's a sense of expectation in the air, the monsoon is just around the corner, people are almost a little restless. As the weather heats up wildlife spend more time near watering holes, making May a good month for rhino spotting in Bardia and Chitwan National Park (if you don't mind temperatures in the low 30s). Buddha Jayanti - the festival celebrating the birth of Buddha - is often held in May, when Buddhist temples will be decorated with brightly coloured prayer flags and twinkling lamps.
Taking an alternative approach to a classic Nepal combination, this journey contrasts the heady and hectic streets of Kathmandu with the open savannah of Chitwan National Park. Slow down to search for tigers and rhinos amid the wilderness, before strapping up your boots for a light trek between two atmospheric lodges in the Himalayan foothills around Pokhara.