Cardamom & Coconuts

Satisfy your appetite for less-trodden paths in Kerala’s north, for superlative scenery and warm hospitality with fewer tourist-centric trappings, or follow the classic loop; either way, it’s well worth whiling away some time in Kerala. It offers a perfect antidote to the behemoth of busy modern India, a carefully-chosen contrast to the Foothills of the Himalayas, a relaxed family exploration, or a home-from-home to relax and regroup at the end of any Indian adventure.

Rural Relaxation

Take a slow start and lean into the pace and flow of Keralan life with a couple of nights in one of its tranquil pockets. Settle in amidst jungles, farms and spice plantations to spend time peacefully strolling through shades of greenery and quiet villages. Find shady spots to settle down and read, take gentle yoga sessions, and even get involved in farm life. In the evening, join in preparing gently spiced dishes, and let the conversation flow over fresh lime juice.

For a different focus, start by the River Periyar. Now a peaceful haven, this was once the heart of the ancient port of Muziris, where merchants came from across the globe to trade in pepper, pearls and silk. Unwind beside the quiet waterways and slow-swaying palms, and step out onto relaxed trails to synagogues, temples and manor houses, past villages, markets and craft artisans, for a glimpse into the area's history. See how the local mosaic of belief, tradition and everyday life all comes together, then emerge refreshed and ready to explore further afield.

Culture & Community

Away from the sheltered rural sanctuaries, the landscape gradually opens up. Rice fields stretch towards distant hills, palm groves give way to drier plains, and the low-slung Palakkad Gap in the Western Ghats beckons. This broad natural pass has long served as a cultural crossroads, its legacy evident in the blend of Tamil and Keralan influences throughout the region. Stay in a village just outside Palakkad itself, welcomed into the 300-year-old mud and teak ancestral home of the Kandath family. 

This isn’t the place for a rigid and packed itinerary, but somewhere to relax into the natural rhythms of the house and village. Wake to the gentle clang of temple bells, walk or cycle with your host through quiet lanes where pastel-shaded homes line the streets, and stop for a warming cup of chai at a corner stall. If you’re lucky, you might be in the right place to witness a village festival, a temple procession or even a music recital. As each day comes to a close, tuck into home-cooked Keralan feasts of subtly spiced vegetables, lentil stews and coconut-rich curries, served with fresh curd to cool the palate. 

Into the Blue Mountains…

It's hard to resist a refreshing interlude in Ooty, short for Udhagamandalam, in neighbouring Tamil Nadu. A steady climb into the blue-green folds of the Nilgiri Hills brings you to what was formerly a summer retreat during the time of the British Raj, with the cool climate, manicured gardens and colonial architecture still offering echoes of that era. Stroll through the botanical gardens, sip locally-grown tea on a hillside veranda, and admire the atmospheric blend of cultural influences alongside the growing modern town.

Even for those who wouldn’t generally class themselves as trainspotters, a ride on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, known as the ‘toy train’, is always a highlight. Built to connect Ooty with the plains below at a time when slow travel was the only option, this historic railway still navigates challenging mountain routes and steep slopes under steam power (with a good side of nostalgia!). The slow, scenic chug brings you up close and personal with the scenery of narrow paths through forests and tea plantations, offering panoramic views of terraced slopes and mountain backdrops beyond.

Wild Wayanad

Wayanad has all of the classic Keralan elements you could wish for: verdant scenery, dense forests, mist draped mountains, waterfalls, plantations and a refreshingly cool (for India!) climate. Yet it is somewhat set apart from the rest of the region by both its ancient history and renowned biodiversity. The region is home to several wildlife sanctuaries that are part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, one of the richest biodiversity hotspots in the world. Head out on early jeep safaris where wild elephants are likely to star, along with langur, chital deer, gaur (Indian bison) and a variety of reptiles, or take a different path for trekking trails to suit every style.

Descend into the Edakkal Caves, where ancient petroglyphs etched into stone walls tell 8,000-year-old stories. Learn more about the distinct cultural groups living in the region, each with their own traditions, languages, customs, and practices of living in harmony with nature, along with the modern challenges they face. Visit Uravu communities where artisans use sustainable bamboo to craft everything from furniture to musical instruments, blending local tradition with innovation.

Spice Trail to Thalassery

Below the mountains lies Thalassery, also known as Tellicherry: a compact coastal town with more than its fair share of cultural richness and compelling cuisine. As a former hub of the spice trade, exporting fragrant cardamom, pepper and cinnamon, traders from all over the world were frequent visitors, creating a diverse local culture. Thalassery was nicknamed ‘the city of three Cs’: cake, as the first bakery in Kerala was established in the city; cricket, as the first place where the game was played in India; and circus, in recognition of its influence on the history of the Indian circus!

Explore the city and neighbouring Mahe, once a French outpost, where Catholic churches and palm-lined avenues lend the town a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’. Stop by spice markets, coastal forts and museums, and enjoy sunset strolls along the sea wall. Find a street food stall or small restaurant to enjoy renowned snacks such as arikkadukka stuffed mussels, or the local take on a biriyani. From December to April, you might witness the electrifying ritual drama of a Theyyam ceremony, where performers channel their deities through elaborate costume and trance-like dancing.

Contemporary Cochin

Board Kerala’s sleek new Vande Bharat express train in Kannur, glide south to Ernakulam, and cross to Cochin, also known as Kochi. Another important center for the spice trade, and the first European colony in India, the city’s varied cultural influences are evident in its eclectic architecture. The Dutch Palace, named after it was renovated by the Dutch, was originally a gift from Portugal to the King of Cochin, while the 400-year-old synagogue, ancient mosque, and St Francis Church display the breadth of Cochin’s religious influences.

Explore the city’s historic sights, open spaces and art galleries on foot or by tuk-tuk, stopping for chai or coffee in contemporary cafes. Take in traditional Kathakali, a fusion of dance, opera and storytelling characterised by elaborate costumes and vivid makeup. Take an early evening boat cruise across Vembanad Lake at sunset, looking back towards the harbour at the huge fishing nets cast in silhouette against an orange sky...

Still Backwaters & Sea Breezes

The last stretch of your journey brings you to some of Kerala’s most iconic highlights - those laid-back waters and low-key beaches. Cruise along on a private houseboat navigating the shallow, palm-edged lakes and narrow canals, passing small villages and soaking up the evocative scenery. Alternatively, if you’d rather stay on dry land, opt for a luxurious lake-side resort, or a simple villa on a working farm island.

Once back onshore, head for Marari, a quiet stretch of coast where white sands and gentle waves offer a final place to pause. Stay in a relaxed beachside resort or boutique homestay, swim in warm seas, walk beneath leaning palm and give your impressions of Kerala time to settle as the final part of your adventure unwinds. If the backwaters and beaches close to Cochin don’t appeal, continue north from Thalassery to the lesser-known Malabar backwaters and the ever-stretching coastline of Neeleshwar.

Classical Kerala, or carry on?

For a more classic, or bite-sized, introduction to southern India, take a couple of nights to lean into the relaxed pace of Keralan rural life, add the verdant tea plantations of Munnar, then continue to Thekkady with a safari in nearby Periyar National Park. Navigate the narrow, palm-edged canals of the backwaters on a private houseboat, before finishing at slow-paced Marari for long walks on the sand.

Alternatively, once you’ve headed out overland from Cochin to Munnar and Thekkady you might almost as well carry on. You're within a very tempting distance of Tamil Nadu…