Deeper Into Sarawak

Look for proboscis monkeys, macaques and lemurs, among many other species, on wildlife spotting treks through the lesser-known forests of Bako National Park, and see orangutan rehabilitation in action in Semenggoh. Fill up on fabulous street food in vibrant Kuching, venture into the depths of Gunung Mulu’s labyrinth of cathedral-like caves, and spend time with traditional Iban communities in Batang Ai, staying in simple lodges and jungle camps. For a little relaxing coastal downtime, head to a remote luxe hideaway with uninterrupted views over the sea….

A meeting of cultures

From caves to cats, longhouses to laksa, the energetic capital of Sarawak is a city full of diverse sights, traditions and cultures. Kuching has managed to stay somewhat under the tourism radar, and is somewhere that everyone at Selective Asia would be very happy to spend a few days. It’s certainly no Bangkok or Delhi, but that in turn comes with its advantages. Kuching is easily explored on foot, and a wander through the city centre, and along the waterfront, offers up a visual feast of architectural delights. Classic grandeur sits alongside 19th-century Chinese shophouses, ornate temples, a golden-domed mosque, traditional Malay buildings, and the distinctive modern payung (umbrella) roof of the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building. 

The waterfront is also the place to be in the evenings, when it comes alive with buskers and food stalls. Whether you decide to eat there, head to one of the bustling hawker centres, or opt for an upmarket restaurant, this is arguably one of the best cities in Borneo for eating out. Once you’ve finished exploring, cycle out through coconut groves and kampongs dotted with wood and thatch stilt houses to visit National Parks, mangrove forests, the turtles of Satang Island, or Semenggok Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, home to semi-wild orangutans rescued from captivity.

Into the darkness…

Known as the ‘show caves’, the superstars of Mulu’s complex are beyond breathtaking. Gaze at the ornate stalactites and stalagmites of Lang Cave, sculpted by thousands of years of water. Take a longboat to Wind Cave, named for the refreshing breeze which flows through its tunnels, and the impressive King’s Chamber with its majestic columns and delicate, lace-like rock formations. Explore Clearwater Cave, home to photo-sensitive algae which grows in needle-like shapes towards the sunlight. Marvel at the moon-like landscape of Deer Cave, which boasts the world’s largest single cave passage and entrance (there’s enough space for St Paul's Cathedral under its enormous archway!)

Time spent above ground in the park can also yield some very impressive sights. Almost every day at sunset, five million bats fly out from Deer Cave in search of food - one of Borneo’s most spectacular natural phenomena. Wings whirring, they form a column over six miles long, which takes at least an hour to emerge; an unforgettable sight.

The main caves are more than enough for many travellers, but there are also more intrepid opportunities to try adventure caving: climbing, abseiling, crawling and squeezing through some of Mulu’s less-visited caverns. Those looking for a bracing physical challenge can have a go at completing the Pinnacles Trek. This test of endurance involves spending the night at a basic camp deep in the jungle, before clambering up iron ladders lashed to the rock face, then gazing out over the Pinnacles: a dramatic stone forest of rocks stabbing skywards.

Longhouse life 

Continue exploring rural Borneo in Batang Ai, spending time with a traditional Iban community and getting a glimpse into the region’s ancient cultures. Centred around large longhouses raised on stilts, though many are no longer lived in, there’s a deep sense of shared communal living within Iban culture, and daily life still relies heavily on hunting, fishing and small-scale agriculture.

Batang Ai is a not-insignificant 7-hour drive from Kuching, and given the distances involved, we’d recommend staying for at least two nights. Visitors no longer sleep in the longhouses themselves, instead staying in nearby lodges built in partnership with the locals, but there’s still a strong sense of experiencing community life. You can expect to see plenty of modern tech, mobile phones, televisions and concrete, but the customs of community living remain the same.

Hike into the rainforest on foot and by longboat, through orangutan habitat. Walk through this lush habitat, learning about indigenous plants, and see how the communities coexist with their surroundings. Swim at waterfalls, search for wildlife, and stay overnight in a simple lodge deep within the jungle.

A rare spot on the coast

Sarawak’s coast is rugged and wild, and its beaches aren’t particularly suited to proper R&R, but the sublime Cove 55 is something of a secret spot that offers the chance for full-on seaside relaxation in style. A former holiday home of a local Iban family, the property has been converted into a characterful high-end boutique. The sheltered, intimate villas are ideal for hunkering down and just enjoying the views, the facilities and uninterrupted time to unwind away from any hint of hustle and bustle, with spaces to suit everyone from couples to families.

While you can head out and explore the surrounding rivers, creeks and wetlands by boat, keeping your eyes open for kingfishers, sea eagles (and even the occasional crocodile!) the purpose here is very much about unwinding in comfort. Enjoy fine-dining created using locally-sourced ingredients, soak in private plunge pools or take a swim overlooking the sea, play a round of golf on the hotel course, and watch the sun set over the horizon.

In a Borneo state of mind?

Sarawak state boasts more than enough to keep you busy, but neighbouring Sabah is also overflowing with highlights. From South-East Asia’s highest mountain peak to a world-famous orangutan sanctuary, there are wildlife hotspots, National Parks and towering rainforests aplenty, along with top options for beach-style R&R. Ample flight connections link Kuching with Sabah’s capital, Kota Kinabalu, which is a connecting hub for all of Sabah’s main attractions and mere minutes from some of Borneo’s best beaches.