Rail & Road to Jaffna
Sri Lanka is very close to our hearts, and we’re drawn back to its shores again and again. We’ve honed and expanded our knowledge of the Sinhalese south, and over recent years have broadened our horizons into the less-explored north too. It’s a land of beautiful islands, wild horses, temples and forts. Although there are memories of war, the area is pristine and offers a wonderful experience to those who make the extra effort to get there.
At its heart, the vibrant city of Jaffna offers an eclectic experience of elegant Dutch-style villas, tree-lined streets, huge Hindu Temples, mosques and churches. The community is very much focused on the future and how the northern region can thrive alongside its more popular neighbours.
Northern Sri Lanka feels completely different to the south. The population is almost entirely Tamil, and their links to India are as strong as they are to Colombo. There is so much to offer in the region, with history, culture and amazing food. We are keen to show a different part of this beautiful island.
Busy, vibrant and on the up
Capital cities are always an experience, wherever you are in the world, and Colombo is no different. You get a sense of a country’s power, its politics, and sometimes an instinct as to where things are heading. Sprawling and growing, Colombo’s suburbs extend for 40 miles. A diverse collection of ramshackle and glass-fronted, broken and fixed, demolished and newly-built, it has an atmosphere of pace and change and is memorable for its sense of what might come next. Stay right in the middle of things in a city-centre hotel, or opt for one just outside (think shaded tropical gardens and revitalised period luxury).
Wherever you base yourself, there’s plenty of excellent food to discover with an evening foodie tour, hidden pockets to explore by open jeep and markets to wander through, bursting with fresh produce and warming spices. As evening falls, wander onto scenic Galle Face Green to get a taste of the city’s street food as you’re buffeted by a warm Indian Ocean breeze. Colonial churches, a bit of bling, smart shopping districts, and a lot of cricket; take your pick of delights in this ever-changing city.
Total sustainability
From Sri Lanka’s biggest city, head out to the evocatively-named Mudhouse. This handmade, lovingly crafted rural resort is a collection of striking, open-sided eco-bungalows set over 60 acres of total wilderness.
The Mudhouse has been enjoyed by both us and our guests many times over the years, and although it's definitely unique and certainly not your average idea of luxury, it makes for an exhilarating, relaxing escape from modern life. The huts and lodges are spread out between the trees, and each one is constructed from materials collected from the environment around you. Think thatched roofs, mud walls, and sections open to the elements; rustic in the extreme.
Run with love and commitment by its local staff, it offers lifetime memories, including wildlife spotting, cycling down dusty tracks, wild swimming and boating. The utter darkness of the night skies is disturbed only by candles and lanterns, and there’s the bonus of delicious dining too.
If The Mudhouse isn’t quite right for you, there’s a range of other options nearby that our expert team can recommend.
The North
Travel north by train or car, through rural roads to bustling cities, agricultural villages and historic monuments. Any visit to this part of the island will include moments of reflection on the war and its legacy, which may define the region’s recent history but not its future or even where it is today.
Jaffna is a special place. It rewards those who immerse themselves within its streets, and expert guides will ensure you get the most out of it. Like much of Sri Lanka, Jaffna was fought over by competing colonising powers, and the Portuguese, Dutch and British influences combine headily with the overriding local style. Explore the Dutch fort, ruined palace, and archaeological sites or head out to the Keerimalai hot springs, whose mineral-rich waters are long believed to have healing properties.
Jaffna to Trincomalee
Jaffna is the region’s main draw, but it’s surrounded by a peninsula and a scattering of windswept beaches with a number of interesting sites to explore. Small villages, archaeological excavations, and the tiny desert village of Manalkadu with its sand-dune-reclaimed, ruined 17th-century church are all intriguing to discover.
Further down the east coast is the city of Trincomalee, bursting with history. Chaotic and noisy, but peppered with characterful villas, an old British fort, and colourful temples. The whole city is a bustling hub of different cultures. The nearby beaches offer whale and dolphin spotting trips in season and a provide a great balance to the bustling cities.
Into the wild
Down the coast from Jaffna is Wilpattu, Sri Lanka’s largest National Park. This is an area of total adventure and a contender for Selective Asia’s favourite wildlife destination of all. A two-night stay here is perfect and often a top highlight of any trip to the island. All manner of wildlife is present in the park, including the extraordinary Sri Lankan leopard. We love to arrange nights under canvas in luxury camps with gourmet dining or simple lodges close to the park. This is much more than just wildlife spotting, with half or full-day safaris, delicious food and amazing wildlife to spot.
Where to next?
The above route showcases a diverse collection of experiences to give you a taste of how a trip to this region might be shaped, but there’s always room for flexibility and adding extra. You might decide to continue your journey along the east coast to Passekudah and Kalkudah or head back to Colombo, to enjoy a bit more of the city experience. You could opt to unwind in a chic hotel in the countryside, spend a few extra days in the foothills of Kandy, or head further into Tea Country. The choice is, of course, yours.
A note on cost…
The north is by some distance the lesser-travelled region of Sri Lanka, and this, in our mind, is what makes it so special. Either side of a recommended 3 nights based in Jaffna exploring the peninsula, there are near-endless combinations and suggestions that we can make for your overall trip. For the 12-night suggested at a per person price of £2,890US$3,790 (not including international flights), we would typically combine Jaffna with 4 nights shared between Trincomalee and Wilpattu with a strong focus on wildlife throughout your stays, 2 nights at the Mudhouse or a nearby alternative and 2 nights in the capital of Colombo.
