Beyond Angkor

Explore Angkor's enticing backroads before striking out for the small village of Banteay Chhmar to relax over a community-led dinner amidst torch-lit temple ruins. Head south to laid-back Battamabang, where reminders of Cambodia’s tragic past sit alongside thriving local industries and contemporary street-art. Skirt the less-visited side of Tonle Sap, Cambodia’s great lake, to pause at a simple but stylish resort and spa. Take advantage of city living in Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh, before savouring the slow road south to riverside Kampot and coastal Kep, tucking into plenty of local roadside lunches alongside the way.

Bayon, Baray’s & Backroads

Break away from the well-known circuit to traverse the backroads of the Angkor Archaeological Park. Marvel at the magnificence of root-bedecked Ta Prohm, the mysterious maze-like chambers of Banteay Kdei, the famous faces of the Bayon Temple, and of course Angkor Wat itself, as well as all the smaller snapshots of the region’s heritage in between. Find forgotten corners where incense wafts over ancient statues swathed in gold and orange, intricate carvings peek from the undergrowth, and everyday life continues in the shadow of the temple walls.

Our favourite way to explore all that Angkor has to offer? Taking a leisurely stroll or gentle cycle around the site, allowing its sheer scale to unfold around you, and listening to stories of its ancient heyday as one of the largest cities in the world. Tuck into fragrant amok curry, explore expansive Baray (one of the area’s ancient man-made reservoirs that still provide a vital water source for the surrounding farms) and join the locals to relax by the waters edge.

Temple-side Living

The peaceful stilt-house village of Banteay Chhmar is a flagship for community based tourism in Cambodia. Locally-led initiatives ensure that everything, from the welcoming homestays to the knowledgeable guiding, is taken care of by the residents, and the profits benefit the wider community. Get a warm welcome from your local hosts who will show you around the village, surrounding gardens, and cassava and watermelon farms.

The community's greatest ‘treasure’ is the enigmatic 'Citadel of the Cat': an elegantly crumbling temple known for its intricately-carved towers and scenes of domestic and military life. Arranged end to end, the extraordinary bas-reliefs on the outer walls would stretch for over a kilometre! Settle down for a torch-lit dinner in the temple courtyard, sampling specialities prepared by cooks from the surrounding villages, and supporting a community dedicated to preserving their heritage for generations to come.

Small Town Cambodia

After bustling Siem Reap and remote Banteay Chhmar, Battambang is the perfect place to experience Cambodia’s small-town side. Meander along wide riverside boulevards and branch off into small alleys. Explore the satisfyingly low-rise town centre, where pastel French-era villas give way to traditional Chinese shop houses and the striking Khmer architecture of the central market. Having always been a hub for the arts, vivid murals now pop from Battambang’s streets; vibrant markers of the town's growing reputation for its street art.

Just beyond Battambang’s boundaries sits the ancient village of Wat Kor, home to one of our favourite countryside retreats, Maisons Wat Kor. From this tranquil spot, farmland stretches away towards the horizon - a scenic reminder of just why this area is known as the ‘rice bowl of Cambodia’. Navigate the rugged terrain on foot or two wheels, weaving your way between neighbourhood temples, cassava and watermelon farms and small-scale workshops. Make a pilgrimage to Phnom Sampeau, marked by its tragic place in Cambodia’s recent history as the site of one of the killing caves. At sunset, thousands of bats stream out from the cave into the dusk; an extraordinary sight to witness.

Farmhouse Retreat

Head for the slower-paced side of the Tonle Sap lake, stopping enroute at small lakeside villages, to reach the stylish and purpose-driven Farmhouse Resort & Spa. It’s the perfect place to relax for a night or two on the way to the capital, although it definitely leans more towards boutique resort than the straight-forward farmhouse its name suggests! There’s still farmwork to be done, however, and you can get hands on with the centuries-old tradition of collecting fire ants and their eggs, which provide the surprising source of a sour, citrus like flavour used in Khmer home cooking.

Explore the property’s model farm, watch sunsets from a nearby viewpoint, visit the surrounding villages, unwind with a yoga session and indulge in a spa treatment or two. However you spend your stay at the farmhouse, it’s reassuring to know you’re supporting this truly sustainable resort, set up by the NGO Smiling Gecko to help combat rural poverty.

Rising Skylines

We love the peace and quiet of the Cambodian countryside, but no trip to Asia would be complete without a little city living. Even the keenest cyclists may want to hop off their bikes to navigate Phnom Penh’s bustle, and the city centre is a great place to wander on foot. Make your way past the tiled walls and strikingly curved roofs of the Royal Palace, and climb the steps to the rumoured founding place of the city, Wat Phnom. Lose yourself under the art deco dome of the central market, amidst stalls selling everything from grilled squid to Krama - traditional khmer scarves, or join locals on the sweeping riverside promenade, looking across towards the rising modern skyline on the opposite bank.

Catch a ferry across the Mekong to visit the skilled weavers of Koh Dach - often called Silk Island - to test your tastebuds at simple street side stalls and locally-run restaurants, or explore classic dishes and modern Khmer cuisine at an exclusive chef’s table.

The decision of whether or not to visit the Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocidal Crimes and Choeung Ek (more often known as the 'Killing Fields') is a deeply personal one, as they can be harrowing, but they form an important memorial to a terrible time in Cambodia's recent history.

Meandering South

Head south from Phnom Penh to Cambodia’s quieter stretches of coastline, along roads lined with small villages, rice fields and markets selling fresh produce, including the unusual local delicacy of knobbly bitter melon. Keen cyclists can, once again, take the opportunity to leave the car and hop on a bike, with your Selective Asia driver staying close should you need to take a break at any stage. Turn off onto smaller tracks and cycle through open farmland dotted with palm trees. Lunch at a lake-side picnic spot, visit the Angkor-era temples of Ta Prohm and Yeay Peau, then continue to Phnom Chisor to climb the hilltop temple steps and see just how far you’ve come.

At the end of the country roads, watch the sun go down by the water’s edge in coastal Kep or riverside Kampot. Dive into plenty of delicious seafood, sizzled with lemongrass or fresh Kampot Pepper. Venture further afield to a small family run farm that grows the famous Kampot peppercorns, peruse out of the way archaeological sites and marigold-hung temples, or hop in a boat and drift past the small, forested islands of the languid Kep Archipelago.