Hanging out in Hanoi
Hanoi takes Vietnam’s resolute, cheerful, long-suffering resilience and crystallises it, unmistakably, into a gorgeous jumble of worldly phenomena.
Its stunning old French colonial buildings, once frustrating symbols of foreign oppression, are now used by the triumphantly home-grown Vietnamese government, which negotiated independence in the 1970s.
For a softer, yet no less tenacious, exhibition of Vietnamese persistence, join the hundreds of Hanoi’s old ladies who get up, before dawn, every day. They’re off to practise Tai Chi around beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake, while the sun rises.
A ‘wonderfully chaotic’ city, Hanoi undoubtedly ranks amongst the finest cities in Asia - if not the world. Its streets are bustling. The traffic is, frankly, mad. Yet somehow - perhaps because Hanoi is full of trees - the overall impression is harmonious, evocative. Ancient temple complexes nestle, leafy and inviting, between brightly coloured shops and houses. The people buzz along between them, stirring up the dust.
The city got a thorough face-lift for its 1000th birthday celebration, in October 2010, and never looked better. Entire streets were renovated. A world record beating 4km-long mural was added. Practically every neighbourhood was repainted in preparation for the event, which was broadcast around the world.
Hanoi weaves romance, energy and charm into a truly unique atmosphere - one that most visitors fall in love with overnight. The city is alive with people from daybreak until last thing at night. Even then, the Pho stands are open, making sure Hanoi continues to eat!
The city has its own unique cuisine. Locals will be delighted to explain how vastly superior this is, to food in other Vietnamese cities. Join them at their favourite pastime - snacking on the amazing street food you can find on nearly every corner.
One of the most remarkable highlights of Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum exhibits the embalmed body of ‘Uncle’ Ho, the revolutionary leader who liberated Vietnam. Thousands of Vietnamese visit him, to pay their respects. You can too - it may sound macabre, but in fact it’s a solid, exuberant expression of the delight, relief and gratitude the Vietnamese feel for their freedom.
Other Hanoi highlights include the One Pillar Pagoda, nearly 1,000 years old and perched in a lotus pool, and the exquisite Temple of Literature, devoted to the memory of Confucius.
The excellent Museum of Ethnology lets you learn about Vietnam's cultural heritage, with a life-size hill tribe village amongst the exhibits. This would be a great place to prepare yourself before heading into Sapa or mountainous Ha Giang, where many of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic minorities still lead traditional lives.
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Hanoi is easily explored on foot. Spend a morning with your guide, to get your bearings, and then just plunge off on your own. The city is simple to navigate, thanks to its grid layout. You’re always close to some incredible street-side food - perfect for keeping your strength up!