Laos Unlocked

The Laotian capital, Vientiane, is one of those places where it can be tempting to focus, rather unfairly, on what it’s not. With a population of less than a million, it certainly isn’t Bangkok, or any of Asia’s other mega-capitals, and closer to home it’ll never equal Luang Prabang as a historical and cultural centre. However, it has plenty to offer in its own distinctive character.

Stroll down streets where French-Colonial architecture rests side-by-side with gilded temples. Begin contemplating Laos’ tragic past at the COPE exhibition centre, which highlights the country’s day-to-day struggle with unexploded ordnance left over from the Vietnam War era. Take artsy photos at the quirky Buddha Park, and have your first sin dat (a communal, Lao-style on-table BBQ) in the night market, all without having to dodge endless streams of tourists along the way.

With a prominent position atop the list of Asia’s most striking destinations, this is a city that encapsulates much of what we love about Laos. Many main streets juxtapose traditional Laotian architecture with more recent colonial-style buildings, so the breadth of the city’s history is always on show. In the labyrinthine backstreets, life remains quieter, underpinned by the daily rituals of monastic life.

This is a city that has undeniably jumped towards modernity, with visitors staying in ever-more lavish hotels, dining in multi-national restaurants, and experiencing the rowdy joys of live music and a Beer Lao (possibly the greatest Asian beer) down by the river. Three, four or even five days here gives you time to take it all in, with our local guides always on hand to show you everything their city has to offer. We highly recommend enjoying a proper local evening out in the city, including a game of petanque – a favourite national pastime.

This is a region of high biodiversity, home to clouded leopards, golden cats, gibbons, countless species of reptiles, and an array of birdlife, not to mention an elusive population of tigers. Whilst many of the larger inhabitants tend to stay hidden in areas of almost impenetrable jungle, there is still always plenty to see.

Slightly counter-intuitively, the best time to ‘see’ wildlife is often after dark. As you float down the river on a night safari, under a star-bedecked sky, your local Khmu guide and boatmen, armed with only their sharp eyes and a spotlight, will reveal an array of nocturnal creatures. Sleeping arrangements are basic, and it’s definitely not a ‘glamping’ situation, but you can enjoy dinner around the campfire before being gently lulled to sleep by the jungle soundscape.

This plateau, where thousands of mysterious stone jars lie scattered, is thought by many to be over 2,500 years old, and the largest jar stands, staggeringly, almost 10ft high. It’s certainly not the easiest place to reach, but well worth the journey, with plenty of time to rest in the relatively simple accommodation available in the area. Spend plenty of time marvelling at the jars themselves, speculating on their origins, visit the MAG (Mine Advisory Group) Centre to learn more about the crucial work of clearing the country’s thousands of undetected mines and unexploded ordnance, and learn about the inspirational Lone Buffalo community education project.

These islands are dotted throughout a lush river delta, home to rural hamlets and incredible microhabitats for birds and wildlife. The occasional small sandy beaches are ripe for leisurely exploration, and easily reached by boat, on foot or by bicycle. En route to or from this tranquil region, visit the evocative pre-Angkor ruins of UNESCO-listed Wat Phou, one of South-East Asia’s more dramatically situated temple sites, or explore the Bolaven Plateau, a picturesque bubble of intersecting rivers, steep waterfalls and tumbling hills. Navigate these routes away from the well-trodden trail from the passenger seat of a 1960’s-era Army jeep.