Nihon no doko he demo

Through all of its trials and tribulations, Tokyo still stands strong as the quintessential modern capital city. Choose whichever restaurant takes your eye and head out for your first night of Tokyo adventures. Your guide will open up the city and help you get your bearings as you delve deep into its historical sights, including the austerely beautiful Meiji Shrine and colourful Asakusa Temple, which display the contrasting approaches to Japan’s two main religions. Tsukiji fish market (the old outer market) is still a crowd pleaser and the place to enjoy the freshest sushi and sashimi.

Beyond the very obvious glitz, and high rise glassiness, it can be nice to enter Shitamachi, the city’s low-key suburbs. Although a little mixed-up in modern times, this part of Tokyo still echoes the way things were before the big money rolled in. It’s a great place to eat cheaply, wander slowly, and enjoy a leisurely beer amidst daily city life.

The extraordinary light, with a clarity that draws the artist’s eye, made Naoshima the ideal spot for an official Art Site, founded by the Bennesse Corporation in the early 1990s, and there are dozens of striking artworks scattered across the island. Around every corner, you’ll stumble upon sculptures and pieces, carefully placed within the landscape, making the island into a living installation which visitors can influence in real time.

Yayoi Kusama’s huge bright yellow pumpkin sculpture, perched on the quayside, is perhaps the most famous (or, at least, most photographed) piece, but there are also Monet masterpieces illuminated perfectly in minimalist surrounds, focusing the eye on their brilliance. The art ethos continues in every aspect, including the buildings themselves. Explore the island by bike or local bus, follow guided art trails between different galleries and sites, and take time to explore a different side to Japan’s enriching culture. The artistic vibes have spread to neighbouring Teshima, Inujima and Megijima, too, adding inspiration for further potential wanderings.

Kinosaki Onsen is an old fashioned town that’s both nostalgic and comforting, with a few faded elements that somehow enhance its charm. There’s no rush, and the relaxed atmosphere soon has you slowing your pace to match. It’s one of our favourite places for a ryokan stay. By day, take a leisurely wander through the streets in your yukata robe and geta slippers, enjoying traditional games and craft workshops. As evening falls, soak up the sight of a hundred lights twinkling on the riverside. Kinosaki Onsen is known for its variety of different hot springs – seven in total – and a little after-dinner ‘onsen hopping’ is a wonderful way to while away an evening, soaking away aches and stresses in the warm mineral waters, as the locals do… Breathe deep and take it all in.

It is stunning, even for those who might not usually find gardens scintillating. Kanazawa is famous throughout Japan for its complicated, esoteric crafts that have helped define the classical period of Japanese art. Have a go at gold leafing some chopsticks, or slurp on a decadent cone of gold-leaf-wrapped ice cream, before marvelling at masterpieces in the world-famous modern art museum.

Spend time with your guide rummaging around the picturesque castle and the nearby preserved geisha and samurai districts. Wandering around these traditional neighbourhoods is so rewarding, and for those who find the crowds of Kyoto a turn off, the noble houses of Kanazawa offer some respite with a little crossover. Enter a few to see the original armour and weapons of the Maeda clan who ruled this part of Japan. The teahouse districts are equally stunning. Stone streets with dark wood-latticed, high-end restaurants and bars line your route, which is particularly atmospheric in the evening.

Cramped and dark with narrow openings for archers, it’s a satisfying insight into the feudal period. Nearby, the attractive merchants’ district of old, white-walled buildings has been converted to stylish boutiques, ryokan, restaurants and cafes.

While you’re in the area, we thoroughly recommend popping over to nearby Kamikochi. This alpine valley is sensationally beautiful and 1 or 2 nights here is time well spent. There is a certain spirituality to Kamikochi that feels accessible to all, and some lovely accommodation options, particularly the summer villa of the Tokyo Imperial Hotel. Hikes of various lengths are on the cards, or you can just take a light stroll marvelling at the impossible aquamarine transparency of the Azusa river. Don’t spend too long on the Kappabashi bridge, however, lest you attract the attention of the frog-like kappa water deities who, legend tells, are said to tempt unwary travellers into the water…