Tales of Tamil Nadu

Don’t be surprised to find that the tranquil French Quarter has areas of manicured streets and highly decorative villas where many locals still speak French. There’s a distinctly French style to the cuisine, and an atmosphere that feels a world away from much of modern India.

Across the canal running through the city is the Tamil Quarter with its traditional Tamil mansions, local shrines, famed Grand Bazaar and general bohemian bustle, which is well worth taking in too. In general, Pondicherry is perhaps best explored on foot, allowing you spontaneous pauses at some of the many art galleries and antique emporiums, and stolls along the promenade soaking up the fabulous views over the Bay of Bengal. Just beyond the town, sits the experimental village of Auroville, founded in the 60’s by a visionary architect to promote human unity and sustainable living; an intriguing spot to see.

A small but fascinating area, Chettinad is a region of around 70 villages which form the traditional homeland of the Chettiars. Legend suggests they were originally Tamil fishermen who moved to this dusty inland area when a tsunami washed away their villages, and having found that the land was unsuitable for farming they turned to trading in salt and gems. Although it’s difficult to ascertain the exact facts of this compelling story, the Chettiars became extremely well-known for money-lending and mercantile pursuits. This enabled them to thrive throughout the period of the British empire, expanding their reach to other British colonies and bringing back huge fortunes to their homeland.

The fruits of their wealth were spectacular mansions, many of which are now sadly decaying. Others are still owned by Chettiar families and used for celebrations, spectacular weddings, or as boutique accommodation, often serving sophisticated local food with some surprising influences. You may even find a meal ending with a local take on a classic British dessert, such as bread and butter pudding!

Madurai is one of the oldest cities in India, with evidence suggesting that early residents traded with ancient Greece and Rome. It’s a Tamil cultural heartland, and a burgeoning industrial centre. With its stretches of rice fields, dusty roads and crowded bazaars, Madurai still feels like an easy place to explore on foot. Wander through it with your guide to learn fascinating tales of kings and ordinary citizens so ancient that they dance the fine line between myth and history.

The numerous colourful towers of the Meenakshi temple are crowded with brightly painted sculptures of divine and demonic figures. Both the physical and spiritual centre of the city, the temple complex covers a vast 14 acres. It includes musical pillars which ring at different tones when struck, a bathing pool for pilgrims complete with a huge golden lotus, and exquisite stone carvings in a 1000-pillared hall. The ‘night ceremony’ is an unmissable event when, accompanied by much chanting, drums, horns and incense burning, the image of Lord Shiva is carried in a procession to the shrine of his wife Meenakshi to spend the night…