Foothills of the Himalayas

A centre of Hinduism and mysticism going back centuries, with a name that translates literally as ‘Gateway to God’, Haridwar is the holiest Hindu city in Uttarakhand state. Set in the place where India’s holiest river, the Ganges, emerges from the Himalayan foothills onto the North Indian plains, Hindu pilgrims flock to the city. They make their way down to the holy river from the ghats (stepped platforms by the riverside) and bathe in the fast flowing waters.

The city is one of only three places where you can witness the spectacular Ganga Aarti ceremony, as every evening the river comes alive with the flickering flames of floating offerings released from Har-ki-Pauri Ghat to honour the Goddess Ganga. Accompanied by the lap of the water against the walls, the chanting and singing of the faithful, the clang of bells, wafting of incense and billowing flames, it’s a moving sight, comparable to the better-known ceremony in Varanasi. Wander through Haridwar to explore some intriguing temples, the lively Jhawla Market and the Bara Bazaar, known for its Ayurvedic medicine.

Arrive in Shimla, known as the ‘summer capital’ during the British Colonial period due to its cooler climate and superb mountain views, then wend your way onwards to Palampur, surrounded by scenic tea plantations, pine-covered slopes, and views of the snow-capped Dhauladhar mountain range.

Around three nights, split between these two hill stations, offers ample time to soak up the mountain vistas, walk the forest trails and explore architecture which reveals so much about the area’s former residents. Two prime examples to put on the must-see list are the Viceregal Lodge, the official summer residence of the British Viceroy of India which, in the lead up to independence, hosted historic talks between Indian and British political leaders, and the oh-so-English Christ Church, one of the oldest churches in northern India.

Linger in the morning, as the city wakes and pilgrims from all over the world begin to enter the temple to bathe in the tank of sacred water, then return to soak up the ambience of the evening illuminations, as devotees flock to see the Adi Granth ceremonially ‘put to bed’.

Although the Golden Temple offers more than enough reason to devote a few nights to Amritsar, the city has much more to reveal. This is somewhere with a chequered history. The Jallianwala Bagh, a walled garden containing a flame of remembrance, marks the site where British troops opened fire on a large Indian crowd assembled for peaceful protest in 1919. Its proximity to the border also offers the opportunity to explore the vast issues surrounding the partition of India and Pakistan. Visitors can watch the famous nightly border-closing ‘lowering of the flags’ ceremony at the Wagah Border between India and Pakistan, which is a feast of impressive marching, competitive cheering and exuberant pageantry.