Cardamom & Coconuts

Take a slow start and lean into the pace and flow of Kerala life with a couple of nights in one of its tranquil pockets. Settle in amidst jungles, farms and spice plantations to spend time peacefully strolling through shades of greenery and quiet villages. Find shady spots to settle down and read, take gentle yoga sessions, and even get involved in farm life. In the evening, join in preparing gently spiced dishes, and let the conversation flow over fresh lime juice.

For a different focus, start by the River Periyar. Now a peaceful haven, this was once the heart of the ancient port of Muziris, where merchants came from across the globe to trade in pepper, pearls and silk. Unwind beside the quiet waterways and slow-swaying palms, and step out onto relaxed trails to synagogues, temples and manor houses, past villages, markets and craft artisans, for a glimpse into the area’s history. See how the local mosaic of belief, tradition and everyday life all comes together, then emerge refreshed and ready to explore further afield.

It’s hard to resist a refreshing interlude in Ooty, short for Udhagamandalam, in neighbouring Tamil Nadu. A steady climb into the blue-green folds of the Nilgiri Hills brings you to what was formerly a summer retreat during the time of the British Raj, with the cool climate, manicured gardens and colonial architecture still offering echoes of that era. Stroll through the botanical gardens, sip locally-grown tea on a hillside veranda, and admire the atmospheric blend of cultural influences alongside the growing modern town.

Even for those who wouldn’t generally class themselves as trainspotters, a ride on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, known as the ‘toy train’, is always a highlight. Built to connect Ooty with the plains below at a time when slow travel was the only option, this historic railway still navigates challenging mountain routes and steep slopes under steam power (with a good side of nostalgia!). The slow, scenic chug brings you up close and personal with the scenery of narrow paths through forests and tea plantations, offering panoramic views of terraced slopes and mountain backdrops beyond.

Below the mountains lies Thalassery, also known as Tellicherry: a compact coastal town with more than its fair share of cultural richness and compelling cuisine. As a former hub of the spice trade, exporting fragrant cardamom, pepper and cinnamon, traders from all over the world were frequent visitors, creating a diverse local culture. Thalassery was nicknamed ‘the city of three Cs’: cake, as the first bakery in Kerala was established in the city; cricket, as the first place where the game was played in India; and circus, in recognition of its influence on the history of the Indian circus!

Explore the city and neighbouring Mahe, once a French outpost, where Catholic churches and palm-lined avenues lend the town a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’. Stop by spice markets, coastal forts and museums, and enjoy sunset strolls along the sea wall. Find a street food stall or small restaurant to enjoy renowned snacks such as arikkadukka stuffed mussels, or the local take on a biryani. From December to April, you might witness the electrifying ritual drama of a Theyyam ceremony, where performers channel their deities through elaborate costume and trance-like dancing.

The last stretch of your journey brings you to some of Kerala’s most iconic highlights – those laid-back waters and low-key beaches. Cruise along on a private houseboat navigating the shallow, palm-edged lakes and narrow canals, passing small villages and soaking up the evocative scenery. Alternatively, if you’d rather stay on dry land, opt for a luxurious lakeside resort, or a simple villa on a working farm island.

Once back onshore, head for Marari, a quiet stretch of coast where white sands and gentle waves offer a final place to pause. Stay in a relaxed beachside resort or boutique homestay, swim in warm seas, walk beneath leaning palm and give your impressions of Kerala time to settle as the final part of your adventure unwinds. If the backwaters and beaches close to Cochin don’t appeal, continue north from Thalassery to the lesser-known Malabar backwaters and the ever-stretching coastline of Neeleshwar.