Eastern Eye

Guided by an elephant-first philosophy in all things, this inspiring project is funded by allowing visitors considerate glimpses of the rescued elephants in their natural habitat. As the project themselves put it: ‘no rides, no tricks, no feeding, no swimming’. Guests are invited to join the herd for the day, walking beside the elephants as they explore their natural forest habitat. Currently, this is a rare approach in Cambodia – watching the population of up to 20 elephants simply ‘being elephants’, whilst providing invaluable support for the local community.

Take time to wander among its atmospheric carved pavilions and arches, and appreciate the stunning landscape spread out below. In this country of constant contrasts, you can make a stop en route at Anlong Veng to see some less visually striking (although equally important) relics of Cambodia’s modern history: the house of Ta Mok, the Khmer Rouge military commander, and the grave of Pol Pot. It’s food for thought that both these figures are still respected by some in this northern region, with fresh flowers often laid on Pol Pot’s grave.

Two or three days will give you the opportunity to explore the contrasting neighbourhoods, sample the street food, and take in more Khmer Rouge sites for a deeper understanding of Cambodia and its people. Test your tastebuds with some of the capital’s more unusual treats, such as deep-fried tarantulas or hot-and-sour red ants; take a cyclo ride along the riverbank; and find a few peaceful moments at Wat Phnom. If you’re looking for something a bit more active, cycle out of the city to visit a traditional stilt village dedicated almost entirely to silk weaving, or to the crumbling stupas of the old capital of Phnom Oudong.