Lovers of all things Asian (especially the food) Stewart and Victoria, after many years travelling in region, finally make it to Vietnam…and it doesn’t disappoint.
Hanoi
We arrived in Hanoi around 9pm with big smiles but tired and unprepared for the cold chill of the airport (this was meant to be Asia!). We had flown in from a friends wedding in Sydney via Singapore and were still suffering from the inevitable over indulgence that occurs when drinks are free and the weather is good.
We expected the visa on arrival application to be a complete hassle but we where photographed, filed and stamped in just under 10 minutes. Our Selective Asia guide greeted us and we were on the road to our hotel before we knew our feet had touched the ground - it couldn’t have been easier.
The hangovers subsided and I no longer cared that I was woefully under dressed for Hanoi in my daft beach get-up. The trip into the city was an education and an eye opener in itself and we were buzzing by the time we arrived at the beautiful Quoc Hoa Hotel. It was knocking on to 10pm now and we were eager for immediate action, so we made plans to head out after a hot shower and get stuck into some of that gorgeous Vietnamese cuisine we had been salivating for since leaving Sydney. Our room was delightful and had a marvellous view out on the hectic streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter. We washed and briefly lay on the bed to check the Selective Asia restaurant recommendations ....and awoke the next morning! Those beds were just too damn comfortable.
We spent our time in Hanoi enjoying morning runs around the city’s central lakes, jumping from one fine restaurant or café to another (top marks go to Highway 4 which was simply superb – think amazing deep fried frogs legs, catfish curry, fish rolls steamed in tamarind). There are also a number of fine bars to be discovered close to the Old Quarter and we did more than our fair share of that!
Ho Chi Minh City
Due to the amount of time we had and the time of year our next stop was all the way down south in Ho Chi Minh City. Despite what we had heard we had a fantastic time and really loved the city. Firstly the weather was completely different to north (in January) - 34 deg and tropical.
The food was also far spicier and being complete chilli-heads this was nothing short of heaven to us. On top of several Selective Asia recommendations we discovered Pho Oso on the very central Dong Khoi St. The restaurant served some of the best Pho we had all holiday with deep fried king prawns completing the dish.
Aside from the food, our other activities included a visit to the fascinating Cao Dai Temple, the central Benh Thahn market where we got some cracking deals on North Face trekking wear and some great Vietnamese artwork. Vic’s was looking for dresses for several weddings next year and had two made up at the fantastic BAO SILK on DE Tham Street. She’ll be quite the talk of Tuscany!
Phu Quoc
Next and final stop was the southern Island of Phu Quoc, which came highly recommended by Nick at Selective Asia who had visited just a few months previously.
Initially we stayed at the magical Mango Bay at the north end of the island. With two perfect beaches, one on either side – the place is unbelievably peaceful, with secluded little coves, a gentle sea, cows mooching around and the lovely gardens running down to the beach. All the trees and spices are labelled so you can learn a little as well!
We hit sunset cocktails (without even moving from our bamboo lounger’s), and just hung out with the other guests and staff in the evening. All the staff were so pleasant and the evenings so chilled. Sun down, they light the candles and oil burners, played some great music, served superb food; fish and meat, fresh from the market, scallops stood out, as did there mixed up starters, deep fried prawn cakes, fresh spring rolls, dill and mackerel balls. They even took us on a trip to market at 5;30. Total madness as boats trudged in and out of the harbour selling thir day’s catch, women fixed nets whilst fellas had a well earned rest. We sampled some fish straight off a boat and a local cooked it with a chilli lime sauce – now that’s fresh fish!
We spent a few days further south on the island as well, at Mai’s house (also highly recommended by Nick). Mai and her French husband have a number of well kept huts and a beautiful little restaurant both leading directly onto the beach. Mai’s cooking was quite simply legendary - squid stuffed with spicy pork, numerous fish ordered by the kg, sour soups with shrimp and the most unbelievable spicy salads…you still knew about them the next day! We ran every morning to a traditional Vietnamese fishing where they found the site of this 6’5” white man covered in sweet hysterical. Still the water they offered was most welcome and by the end of the week they had become used to us.
We also hired mopeds to explore the island a little more, passing fishing villages, markets, small hamlets and mile after mile of empty white sand beach lined with gently swaying palm trees.
Returning to the UK is never easy, but with the logistics handled perfectly with transfers in both Phu Quoc and Ho Chi Minh City, at least we could concentrate on finding just one more meal! We boarded the plane with heavy hearts, very full belly’s and a content smile on our faces….until the next time!