Lionel finally makes it to the Plain of Jars
...and throws in the Vieng Xai Caves for good measure. Take a walk through a truly magical up-and-coming Asian destination
Staying one step ahead of the guidebooks
Every year staff from the UK and the Australian offices make a number of visits to Asia, ensuring that we are always 100% up-to-date with new and past favourite hotels, that we’re the first to explore the new and upcoming destinations and that we all spend time with our local teams. These trips also ensure that we keep our ‘ears to ground’ – meeting travellers, learning new routes and discovering new and exciting activities and sites.
In May, Lionel returned to Laos after a lengthy absence. His mission: to visit the north-east region of Xieng Khuang province, the Plain of Jars and the recently opened Vieng Xai caves.
Luang Prabang to Phonsavan
I had travelled through Laos twice before but I had never arrived by plane (incidentally, if an overnight stop in Bangkok is required, a night at The Sukhothai makes a pleasant change from Wally's Guest House on the Khao San Road). Arriving at Luang Prabang Airport on the short flight from Bangkok I had a chance to experience what is for many a quite remarkable first experience of Laos.
The queue at immigration consisted of myself and the other passenger from my flight! Once he had got his visa stamp, it was my turn. Having completed the immigration and (non-existent) customs formalities, I stepped out from the tiny terminal building and into the springtime sunshine, to be greeted by my guide and driver, companions for the next few days.
Driving into the centre of Luang Prabang I noticed how little it had changed much since my previous visit; perhaps there were one or two new boutique hotels and a couple more guesthouses, but, if anything, it seemed that there were fewer travellers and tourists in May 2008 than in February 1997. I asked Somchan, my guide, if I had arrived during a public holiday since everywhere seemed so quiet but he assured me that this was normal at the beginning of the rainy season. I couldn't spot a cloud in the sky but nevertheless accepted his word on the matter. It is worth mentioning at this point what an excellent time of year the start of the ‘off season’ can to travel in Laos - in the months of April, May and June the weather tends to still good and you get to enjoy Laos without the crowds.
After checking in to the charming Villa Maydou, we set off for a brief tour of the city and some hotel inspections (it was at this point that I had to remind myself that I was actually here to work!).
Next morning Somchan picked me up at 8am for the long drive east to Xieng Khuang province. This hadn’t been an option on my previous visits due to bandit activity on highway 7, but things had long since changed and with security no longer an issue, I was finally going to the Plain of Jars.
Arriving in Phonsavan around 4pm after a long but scenic and enjoyable drive, I was greeted at L'Auberge Plaine Des Jarres by Sanya Vincent, my French/Laotian host for the next two nights. L'Auberge can only be compared to a Swiss Alpine chalet in summer; comfortable individual lodges set on a wooded hillside overlooking the town of Phonsavan - not what I had expected, but then Laos always tends to keep you on your toes. After a shower and a stroll, I made my way to the restaurant for a Beer Laos and a fine meal. The evening was quite chilly, but, as if to complete the Swiss-chalet feel, blazing logs in the fireplace, the French-Laotian menu, and a long wine list were very warming indeed.
The Plain of Jars
Next morning I was eager to get to the Plain of Jars so we set off at first light. The three main sites are close enough to each other that one can cover them all by foot in a long morning. The Jars are truly remarkable and you cannot help but wonder who carved these huge pots, weighing up to three tonnes each, and then scattered them to rest over several square kilometres (and perhaps more to the point; why?).
After lunch, and an afternoon visiting remote villages and temples as well as making several further inspections I returned to L'Auberge for another very pleasant evening of food, red wine and great conversation with other guests and the delightful staff (I think you get the idea that this is a pretty special place!).
On this type of inspection trip time is usually pretty limited and I would always recommend that any Selective Asia client take a 2nd day to enjoy the region at a far more sedate pace. However the next day saw me bid farewell to L'Auberge and head for the town of Sam Neua close to the Vietnamese border.
Before departing Phonsavan I paid a visit to MAG (The Mines Advisory Group), the international charitable organisation undertaking such valuable work in assisting the Lao Government in the clearance of unexploded mines and ordnance dropped during Vietnamese-American war. As is common in such cases, one cannot help but marvel at the cheerfulness and forgiveness of people in a region that is documented as the most heavily bombed area on the planet.
Sam Neua and the Vieng Xai Caves
Again it was a long but pleasant drive through forests and valleys and we reached Sam Neua late in the afternoon after several interesting stops at hill tribe villages, hot springs and a strange ancient burial ground. Sam Neua has developed as something of a trading town between Laos, Vietnam and China and whilst pleasant enough it cannot exactly be described as charming.
However, soon after checking in to The Sam Neua Hotel I discovered that there was a festival taking place in town. Large crowds were gathering in the square and a fairground complete with stalls and rides had been set up. I later learnt that this was an annual celebration of the Laos Communist party's victory during the Vietnamese-American war. It turned out to be a very friendly but quite noisy evening of celebrations…the Lao people certainly know how to throw a party!
The next morning was spent exploring the Vieng Xai Caves, home to the Lao resistance during above mentioned war. Set in a region of granite karsts deep in the infamous ‘Ho Chi Minh Trail’ (isn’t this supposed to be Laos?!) this is an area seldom visited by westerners. The caves are, however very important for Lao visitors keen to learn more about their recent history. In the 1960s The Pathet Laos lived and coordinated their resistance movement from the caves, sheltered from the incredible level of aerial bombing from American aircraft. There were seven main caves sheltering the leaders, and many more for the troops, supporters and local villagers. During America's 'secret war' more bombs were dropped on Laos than were dropped during the whole of WW2, a quite incredible statistic. The well-resourced visitor centre and the skilled multi-lingual guides employed at the caves ensure that visitors of any nationality leave with a fascinating insight into this period of Laotian history.
Tomorrow I was crossing the border into Vietnam. I remembered it was supposed to be rainy season, perhaps it was raining in Vietnam?
Click here for details for more information on the Plain of Jars and Vieng Xai Caves
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