These Wonderful Asian Mornings

Touching down in Thailand for the first time, I knew instantly that I was going to love it. The sights, the sounds, the smells, the pace – it was everything that I could ask for of a destination. Thinking back to that first unforgettable holiday more than a decade ago, I can remember all the things that impressed me most – the beaches, the temples, island-hopping, dinner with friends (is there a better supper than a Thai feast washed down with Chang beer?). And after travelling South-East Asia extensively, I’ve learned that it’s the same all over. That’s what keeps me coming back for more.

When I was asked to write this column, I started to think a little harder about why South-East Asia is my favourite region in the world. Yes, you’ve got the sands, the sea, the sights and the smells, but for me, the best part of any day is when most of my travel companions are still sound asleep beneath their mosquito nets. Getting up early might be at odds with your idea of a holiday, but you’ll get to see your destination from a completely different perspective – one mostly devoid of tourists, but teeming with locals. It’s not just the wildlife that comes alive with the sunrise in Asia - it’s the people too.

The beaches of Koh Lanta are sprinkled with locals of all ages practising Tai Chi, jogging with friends or crashing into the waves for a truly invigorating wake up. The sand is usually littered with stray dogs, too, welcoming the day in their own way - with a howl and a scratch. As South-East Asia’s cities warm up for another steamy day, streets such as Bangkok’s Sukhamvit Soi 3 fill up with food stalls selling soups, noodles and an endless array of Thai specialities – a much better option than the American breakfast on offer in most of the city’s hotels and, at about 15p a bowl, much better value too.

By 5.30am, long queues of saffron-robed monks are already lining the streets of Luang Prabang, receiving alms from the throngs of believers that welcome them on a daily basis, come rain or shine. Elsewhere, the wats and temples of destinations as far afield as Phnom Penh, Chiang Mai, Hanoi and Surat Thani are also bustling with worshippers making merit with the much revered monks.

Visit any fishing ports, such as the ancient town of Hoi An, and you’ll see weary fishermen returning with last night’s catch. The bartering that follows each vessel’s arrival easily matches the intensity of the floating markets of the Mekong Delta or on the Tonlé Sap. By now, the moto drivers of Cambodia will be sharing one last cup of coffee, often huddled close to the Royal Palace, before taking to the streets for another day of hunting-down tourists, hounding them for a fare for the entire day – only the strong survive.

Much of South-East Asia is considered a dream destination by trekkers and adventure enthusiasts. Along with the challenging trails, stunning landscapes and unique wildlife, the friendly hill-tribe people are a big attraction. Spend a night or two in a minority village, such as that of the Akha people of Northern Laos and, unless you were born on a farm, you’ll have no choice but to rise with the rest of the village – the pigs and chickens will make sure of that! By 6am your breakfast will be on last night’s fire and throngs of children will continue the show of curiosity and excitement that began as soon as you arrived…it’s a wonderful experience.

Picking my favourite “Asia am” moment is easy – I set my alarm for 6am, slip on a pair of trainers and head to Hoan Kiem Lake in the centre of Hanoi. There, I join an ever evolving circle of people running laps around the “Lake of the Restored Sword”, with its picturesque island temple connected by a distinctive red bridge. Sometimes it’s just one lap, sometimes 10, but either way I’ll stop at the northern end, take a seat at my favourite lakeside coffee shop and order the finest cup of coffee in all of Asia.