Vietnam and Cambodia - March 2007

Richard Williams travelled with us in March 2007. He took his then girlfriend Emily (they got engaged during their holiday!) to Vietnam and Cambodia on our Mekong Connection trip. Here's how it all went for the couple from Belfast.

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Day 1 - touchdown in Siem Reap

After what was not the easiest of flights (that’s the last time I save £60 by taking a second stopover!) meeting Bo at Siem Reap airport, with our name board in his hands, was truly a joyful moment. We were whisked off to the fabulous Hanumanalaya Hotel for a swim and a quick bite to eat before hitting sack for a very long nights sleep….welcome to Kampuchea!

Day 2 - Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor ...they're 'o.k'!

We slept like babies last night and awoke to rain (this wasn’t in the brochure!). As we sat down for breakfast, Bo appeared and told us that the rain would stop within the hour, we’d see nothing but sun for the rest of the day (it did and it was) and that he was with Drev our driver out the front when we wanted to head out.
Just 15 minutes drive from the town centre are the temples of Angkor and frankly I don’t know where to start…I’d done my research and thought I was prepared for what lay ahead. Not one bit.
They are quite simply stupendous; words really cannot describe the impact they had on both Emily and I. Yes there are large crowds, yes it is very hot and no that did not spoil it one bit. Brilliant.
Bo had created a great programme for us and I’m afraid I didn’t take a note of individual temple names but I can tell you that each was as fantastic as the last.
We arrived back the hotel in a state of shock, we could barely believe what we had seen – after a quick look through our photos and an email to soon-to-be jealous friends, we set off into town for a meal at Hotel de la Paix. Recommended by (yes you guessed it) Bo, we sat on our swing and ate our first truly Cambodia dishes…any first timers should look no further than Amok fish, the national dish. I was to eat it almost every day of my stay!

Day 3 - avoiding the crowds

Bo and Drev really earned their money today as they drove us from one temple to the next seemingly just minutes in front of several large tour buses. We enjoyed the temples in relative peace before walking out to a mass of people walking in. Most impressed, we invited them both for a spot of lunch (Amok fish anyone?!) before heading back into the temples for the last time.
We had chosen just two days at the temples and, whilst sad to leave, this was the right decision for us. Nick (our ever-knowing consultant) had warned us of getting ‘templed-out’ and we both feel that another day may have taken the edge off the experience a little. What Philistines we are. Another great meal and some Angkor beers before crashing out in preparation for our next adventure.

Day 4 - The Tonlé Sap and Phnom Penh

Early start to catch the boat to Phnom Penh and I was really excited. I had heard good things about the city and wanted to get a taste of what Cambodia was really all about. The boat was great – we sat on the roof as we made our way across the Tonlé Sap Lake. The most interesting stretch is as you leave Siem Reap and when you arrive in Phnom Penh – the lake narrows and you get to see how the local fisherman and their families live. All I will say is that they have very good balance…some of the rafts and boats are little more than a ski!
Once docked, we were met by Da who walked us across the street to our hotel. We checked in to the Amanjaya (wow!) and kicked back for a few hours, taking in the noise from the streets below.
In the afternoon we visited the Royal Palace, Wat Phnom and the Silver Pagoda (all amazing) before calling it a day. Sunset at the Amanjaya is pretty special and we enjoyed a beer at the street side café as Phnom Penh started to wind down after another hot (very) day.

Day 5 - The amazing Cambodian people

A day like no other I have ever had. We visited the torture museum, S-21, and the killing fields. Emily found it all a little hard going, quite understandably, but I was fascinated not so much by the places themselves but more by the reaction of Da and the other Cambodians he introduced me to. They were all so open and willing to talk about the terrible years - it really took me back (and I’m Irish!).
Mentally exhausted we spent much of the rest of the day watching the world go by from various cafes and restaurants dotted along the banks of the Mekong River.

Day 6 - Vietnamese chilli's

Upwards and onwards, we’re off to Vietnam! We travelled by boat downstream towards the Vietnamese border. It’s a pretty cool feeling as you travel through the Mekong Delta - we even spotted a very old war plane sticking out of the bank at one point…not sure who’s it was but I would have fancied the pilots chances out there.
The border crossing is an event in itself (the smiling Cambodian faces are replaced with the stern stares of the Vietnamese military). We said goodbye to Da as we are met by Thu our new guide…it’s like losing a friend and then making another two seconds later.
We spent the night in Chau Doc at the very colonial Victoria Hotel right on the banks of a delta waterway. The heat of the Vietnamese food caught me a little by surprise much to the delight of the waiter.

Day 7 - The Vietnamese are smiling

We continued through the delta all morning which was stunning and a journey I won’t forget in a long time. The conical shaped hats and smiles of the local people who always had a wave for us – especially the children who were swimming alongside the boat at one point!
Once in Saigon we couldn’t wait to hit the town. Nick had told us about a great restaurant, Quan An Ngon if you are interested, and we wanted to get there early to avoid the queues. The place was packed and we only just squeezed in but its well worth it – there are loads of food stalls within the restaurants each preparing their one or two specialities.

Day 8 - Those Asian sunsets...you just cannot tire of them

A day exploring Saigon and its surroundings – we started at the amazing Cu Chi tunnels. I’m always game for a challenge so tried to squeeze my 6ft frame down the small tunnels and almost got myself stuck. Once free we headed back to Saigon for a tour of the town with Thu – a great guy with a wicked sense of humour. We finished up at the Majestic Hotel for a few beers and another great Asian sunset.

Day 9-15 - The sunshine of Phan Thiet

Six days left and all of it at Phan Thiet – I won’t bore you with our daily routine but a it’s a great beach option. Mui Ne was really pretty and Phan Thiet has plenty of character – it’s great to get down there in the early mornings to watch the fishermen coming in from a night on the water.
We hired bikes and headed up the coast which was a good days adventure, aside from that I did very little other than enjoy the 30deg+ Vietnamese sunshine.

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