Thailand, Laos, Cambodia & Vietnam - February 2008

Interested in doing a little more then just scratching the surface of one country? Take a leaf out of Liz, John and Anne's book and take over a month exploring Indochina and Thailand!
This mammoth journey saw them travelling from Bangkok into Laos via Chiang Rai and onto Cambodia by land. Finally they travelled into Vietnam via the Mekong Delta. 33 days after arriving in Bangkok, their journey is coming to an end as they depart Hanoi!

They've called it 'three go mad down the Mekong'...read on to see why:

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Day 1

Boy were we pleased to get off that plane in Bangkok after a fraught 48 hours trying to get from the south coast of Turkey to Istanbul which was under snow!! Our plane was delayed and there were worries about our guide being at the barrier to meet us but there was Ken’s smiling face. We stayed at the Siam Heritage and met up with our friend Anne who was travelling part of the way with us. A courier came to collect our passports for our Vietnamese visas that were returned the following day. Well, what would you do with the rest of the day but down a few gin and tonics and relax ready for the rest of the holiday.

Day 2

We spent the morning at the Royal Palace – a real wow……….. It is one of the most beautiful palaces in the world despite the crowds. We had the rest of the day free so opted to take ourselves off to Jim Thompsons for a bit of relaxation, introduction to the Far East for Anne and of course some shopping. We went from there to the Indra Centre for more shopping and bargain hunting and ended up in a fabulous restaurant on the banks of one of the kongs for some fresh lobster and giant size prawns and of course, some more gin and tonics. We had of course in our heads christened this holiday “Three go mad down the Mekong with the gin and tonics”

Day 3

Back up to Thewat pier for the flower and seed market and then down the river to collect some stunning brass pots we had seen and paid for the day before. Unfortunately, Anne had to return to Ankara that night for an interview so we had to say our goodbyes until we met again in Luang Prabang. We went on to get the overnight train up to Chiang Mai. Good train service which included ordering your drinks, evening meal and breakfast. We made friends with the waitress and the guard and spent the remainder of the evening with them at the end of the train carriage.

Day 4

Breakfast at 6am!! Arrived in Chiang Rai to find our guide and driver waiting for us………. So how do you spend your time before being able to check into your next hotel. We were taken to this wonderful hot spring for a rest and breakfast if you needed it and then spent an hour or more in Wat Rong Khun temple just outside Chiang Rai. It was a modern take on a traditional Buddhist temple and made of white concrete and mirrors. We were particularly taken by his vision of hell with all the hands coming out of the earth. Arrived at Teak Garden Spa in Chiang Rai – beautiful place with wonderful gardens – very relaxing.

Day 5

My 60th birthday and we decided to eat in the hotel as it was a long way from the centre of Chiang Rai but go and explore during the day. Nice city with lots of things to see and we went to the night market and bought more “little things”. Found a lovely restaurant which had an extensive menu “The Old Dutch”. Returned to hotel on a tuk-tuk only to discover there was no alcohol available in the hotel restaurant because of local elections!! Had room service and downed a few more gin and tonics!!

Day 6

Very early start to do the 2 hour drive to the Laotian border. Wonderful to cross the river early in the morning and leave through a wooden gate which said on one side “welcome to Siam” and on the other “welcome to Indo China”. Su our guide was there to meet us at Huay Xai and organise our private boat for us. This was a truly wonderful part of the trip cruising down the mighty Mekong. We learnt a lot about the hilltribes of Laos and visited a Hmong village where the people are subsistence farmers. The family living on the boat cooked a magnificent lunch and then we were able to relax in the sun at the front of the boat. Arrived at Pakbeng Lodge before sundown. As the level of the Mekong was so low I had great admiration for our porters who hoisted our bags on their heads and made the climb up to the hotel. Wonderful sunset from our balcony with perfect views. Early night after more g&t’s.

Day 7

Back on the boat for 9.00 am and more of the leisurely cruise we had experienced the day before. Opportunity to visit another village where several women were using portable looms to weave silk and of most interest was a home made still where they made the Lao whiskey!! Another great lunch and then an opportunity to climb to Pak Ou Caves where there are thousands of Buddha statues which were hidden in the caves to protect them from looting.
Arrived in Luang Prabeng just at the start of the evening market. Lovely hotel right in the centre of town.

Day 8

We just loved Luang Prabang and spent the day just wandering around the beautiful buildings. Went to the Museum of Ethnography to learn a bit more about all the minority tribes that make Laos so special – a lovely place to sit in the cool and have fruit juice.

Day 9

Anne was back and we all went to Luang Prabang International Airport – what a grand title for such a small place – to meet her off the plane from Bangkok. She hit the ground running and we went straight off to a craft village to see wonderful handmade paper and silk weavin. She had only been on the ground for ½ hour and she was already shopping. We did all the tourist things – a visit to the former Royal Palace with its breathtaking interior, then Wat Xieng Thom and Wat Visoun with its watermelon stupa. Later that evening had the hottest green papaya salad that we thought imaginable followed by a number of gin and tonics.

Day 10

An early flight to Vientiane – 40 minutes where we stayed at the Green Park Hotel - lovely. Another day and another guide. Today was all about wats and stupas – we visited the lovely Haw Pha Kaeo – the national museum set in this garden of frangipani trees. Several other temples, Laos’ arc de triomphe and of course only just managed to get to Wat That Luang Monastery and the famed golden stupa.
We arrived just as it was closing but our guide managed to persuade them to let us in. The stupa was absolutely stunning in the sunshine but by this time our feet ached and we were clearly stupad’s and watt’d out!! We had our guide drop us in the centre of town where we found a wonderfully stocked little supermarket with a bar opposite – for the gin and tonics and after much wandering finally found the “Mekong Deck”.
Great restaurant on the banks of the Mekong – full of young Laotians and Thais – not a tourist in sight - which served a wonderful assortment of dishes. This was of course where we had absolutely the hottest, mindblowing green papaya salad of the whole trip it took most of the remainder of the evening to recover……….

Day 11

Well more shopping so we went to the central market looking to buy silk for curtaining. An astonishing place where you could buy electronics – although many of them were old hat compared to western standards – food, material and clothes. We found the 13 metres of silk, several tops and jackets which all went into our bags and another camera card for Anne. She and I returned to the hotel for a quiet afternoon in the sun whilst John explored more of Vientiene and we agreed to meet back at the Mekong Deck at sunset. Tuk tuk back to the deck where some young Laotians were attempting to inflate a hot air balloon which was watched by everyone with great interest. Wonderful sunset over the river and a happy evening was had by all – no more green papaya salad!!

Day 12

...saw us on a very early flight to Pakse where we arrived just before 8.00 am. A smiling Det was there to welcome us and then a wonderful boat trip down the river to Wat Phou a pre-Angkorian temple. The temple itself is set in an avenue of frangipani trees – just mind blowing. However, Anne was the only one of us feeling up to climbing the steps that day – we simply sat in the shade and enjoyed watching the Thai tourists in their yellow hats. Then back on the boat to La Folie – one of the most glorious places we stayed. Set on an island in the Mekong and built by a French “prince” with the water buffalo along the banks.
This is a real gem – wooden huts simple yet sophisticated. We had a wonderful late lunch then a siesta followed by a stunning evening meal with of course more gin and tonics. We were all really upset that we were only staying one night in this gem.

Day 13

Another boat to the mainland and then a drive to 4000 Islands and Don Khong and another boat trip around the islands. Picture postcard stuff. Went to both the waterfalls and to the old railway. Of course, by this time we arrived late at the Don Kralor border where our Cambodian guide Vanthe had been waiting for 4 hours.
Easy border crossing into Cambodia and then a ferry across the Mekong – the bridge wasn’t yet open and then a further 2 hour drive to Kratie – arrived too late to visit the dolphins. Kratie was difficult to wander round without your bearings but we did at least find a decent bar where we drank our way through the cocktail list and had a plate of chips. Arriving back at our hotel we found the census going on and they certainly weren’t about to let us go to bed without filling in a census form. Well there must be lots of people in Cambodia who can speak large numbers of different languages but have absolutely no grasp of Khmer!!

Day 14

An early start although Anne had fallen on the tiles the night before and hurt her back so we were administering anti-inflammatories and liberal doses of tiger balm every few hours.
Back the way we had come to see the Irawaddy dolphins. The guidebook says that it is rare to see them but we were incredibly lucky that morning and our little boat was surrounded by them but of course they never stayed still enough to get that really great photo – but it was a magical experience.
By this stage we were running really late and more changes to the itinerary. Lunch at Kompong Cham and then on to Wat Nokor. Wonderful temples with the most intricate brickwork and it felt we were on our own.
Leaving the temple we were lucky enough to see a dancing display by local children who had been orphaned – we all felt very privileged to see the grace and skill of these children.
We finished the day with a visit to Phnom Pros where the monkeys that day finished off several bunches of bananas. That evening arrived at Kompong Thom at dusk.

Day 15

More temples at Sambor Prei Kuk where we spent the morning wandering around and asking questions with a small group of children urging us to buy their traditional Cambodian scarves. They were delightful and of course, who could resist after they had walked all the temple complex with us, they deserved a sale! Back in the minbus and on to Siem Reap and the fabled Angkor Wat where we arrived late in the afternoon, met our guide for our time in Siem Reap and had a wonderful meal at the Hanumanalaya.

Day 16

Anne’s first vist to the Angkor Temples and we decide to go to Angkor Thom and the Bayon heads. Our guide was wonderful and we hardly had to contend with other tourists as he managed to find escape routes for us. Then on to the Elephant Terrace and Ta Prohm. This may not seem a full itinerary but it took us 5 hours with lots of questions and pictures.
An afternoon at Artisan’s D’Angkor where we viewed the workshops and had an opportunity for more shopping and then on to the market in Siem Reap for even more hard bargaining.

Day 17

A 90 minute boat trip down the Tonle Sap to Kompong Phluk a village of 3000 inhabitants supported by UNICEF. This village/town is composed almost entirely of Khmer fishermen. The people live in houses built on stilts 6-8 metres high and even with outside support the poverty is all encompassing. We were able to visit the school and speak to the children who were delightful.
We went to the temple which is built in the only part of the village not flooded when the river rises. The most delightful thing was the beautiful flowers cultivated on their balconies matched with the pink of the dried shrimps laid out in the main street. A demanding day but well worth the effort.
Back to Siem Reap and more exploration of this hustly, bustly little town – I am afraid not our favourite place. For our evening meal we went to Visoth a lovely Khmer restaurant with a laid back atmosphere where the tables are laid on decks surrounded by running water.

Day 18

Back to the temples and to the fabled Angkor Wat. Another four hours spent wandering around and ducking and diving trying to avoid all the other tourists but still a wonderful experience. This was enlivened by the weddings in the grounds, we saw at least four and loved the colour and enjoyment the Cambodians were having.

Day 19

We were going to travel on the Isabella down to Phnom Phen but had been told that it had engine problems so we were loaded on to the Express Ferry. We were absolutely terrified it was overloaded, smelly, incredibly noisy – thank god that Anne had three pairs of earplugs otherwise we would have been deaf for the rest of our trip.
This was not a nice experience and one not to be recommended. Six hours later we arrived in Phnom Phen to be met again by Vanthe our guide, who was simply wonderful – listened to our tales of woe and simply diffused the whole situation although it did warrant an e-mail to Selective Asia that evening. We spent the remainder of the day recovering from the boat trip!!

Day 20

Visit to the Royal Palace was simply wonderful although we all felt that Cambodia was so poor how did a King warrant this kind of palace? The gardens were beautifully manicured and of course we all loved Napoleon’s house built in the grounds.
Vanthe was a star and found me a piece of frangipani to take home and grow in our garden. We also visited the silver pagoda which once housed the Emerald Buddha and of course the National Museum.
Lovely day and we spent the rest of the time exploring Phnom Phen and finding bookshops and places to eat. Great meal that night in a restaurant close to the Pavilion.

Day 21

Free day in Phnom Phen so we just wandered and explored more shops, bookshops, CD shops. Sat in the shade in lovely cafes and simply watched the world go by.
Ate that evening at one of Selective Asia’s recommended restaurants Khmer Surin and had a fabulous meal.

Day 22

Crisis of packing bags which had by now become overfull. But lovely lunch at Friends Restaurant and then transferred to Vietnamese boat for our trip across the Mekong Delta and into Vietnam. Smallish speedboat which could seat 8 but we were the only travellers so we spread out and managed to have our first group gin and tonic actually travelling down the Mekong!!
That was fine until we saw a dead body floating past us – our pilot got on the telephone to tell someone. Arrived at the Cambodian border and had our visas cancelled and watched the police playing basketball and then back on the boat for another 200 hundred metres or so to the Vietnamese border – this just appeared to be a bank we would have to scramble up but a nice man appeared asked for our passports – went back up the bank and off on his bicycle.
We had another lunch – sandwiches, cake etc., and then the man returned with our passports duly stamped and off we went straight into a monsoon type storm. Thunder, lightning and sheet rain.
By the time we had turned into the Bassac river it had stopped and we had this wonderful notion that the Vietnamese tourist board had told everyone to make an effort – we had the picture of the oxcarts along the bank, children washing their water buffalo and egrets sitting on the banks. Vietnam was so different from what we had expected – so much cleaner and more industrious than Cambodia. Arrived at the lovely Victoria hotel in Chau Doc.

Day 23

Visit to floating village and then onto Can Tho with Lap our guide. The high spot was the visit to the mushroom farm with no mushrooms growing!! Then on to visit a wonderful old house with the family eating lunch. Exquisite carvings and pictures. Arrived in Can Tho early afternoon. Taxi into the town and although we wandered around we ended up down by the waterfront to watch the kite flying.
Back to the hotel for an absolutely glorious meal in the hotel – the chef was an absolute genius.

Day 24

Onwards to Ho Chi Minh City and we decided on sleeping rather than the trip to more floating markets. Had to wait for an hour to board the ferry across the Mekong surrounded by hundreds of people on motorbikes – a foretaste of what was to come.
Lovely drive and a stop for a wonderful lunch, but arrived in Saigon late afternoon. Pretty freaked out by the traffic and the difficulty of getting around the place and rather unimpressed by the hotel and its lack of facilities.

Day 25

Everywhere take a very long time to reach in Saigon so started the morning with a visit to Chu Chi tunnels. John and Anne went in and I sat reading a book as I knew I would get panicky, but it sounded like they had a really interesting time and came back with lots of tales.
Then back into the city and a tour of the Reunification Palace and the War Crimes Museum. We gave up on the old Post Office, Notre Dame Cathedral – we are all atheists and the Thien Hau Pagoda in favour of a visit to Chinatown and the incredible flip flop market. We all decided that the Turks (did I say that we all live in Turkey?) have nothing on the Chinese they really know how to pack it all in.

Day 26

We were moving on again and after some final shopping John and I went off to the railway station to get the overnight sleeper to Danang. Anne was returning to Turkey after another few days in Bangkok. Vietnamese railways are pretty efficient even though the staff can be more than a little officious especially if you have paid and reserved 4 bunks and there are only two of you travelling. Pleasant journey and had taken our own supplies as we really weren’t sure if there would be food on the train.

Day 27

Arrived in Danang at 6.00 am. Visit to China Beach to see the Vietnamese doing their exercises and simply enjoying themselves on the beach. Transfer to Hoi An where we checked into the hotel. We were able to leave our luggage and go off and explore the town.
Well, I simply want to go back. Wonderful place to relax in and so many things to see – of course, as per our track record we didn’t get around everything the town had to offer. Back to our hotel to check in and have a little nap and then walk back in for an evening meal.
Found the Hoi An café – only a small place right on the waterfront – with a Swedish chef offering Asian food and Turkish mezzes – we could hardly believe it, but the food and wine we had that evening was absolutely delicious.

Day 28

Time for some more shopping in Hoi An and a photo opportunity of the girls coming out of school in their white Chongsams. Then back on the overnight train for the journey to Hanoi.
Still had time to visit Marble Mountain and the villages producing the most beautiful statues. John by this time was on a mission to get one shipped home for our garden but we simply ran out of time.  We also visited the incredible Cham museum in Danang – this is really worth a visit particularly if you like pre-Angkor statues.
Scenery was stunning between Danang and Hue so time for another journey simply to explore this part. Unfortunately, the train stopped for an hour and we were told by the local passengers it had run someone over!! Less officious staff on this train and we managed a good nights sleep.

Day 29

Arrived in Hanoi at 6.30 am – later than expected because of the accident. We were whisked off to our hotel – who were able to give us a room. Just time to have a shower and breakfast and then we were off to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. The people watching was far more fascinating that the actual mausoleum. It was the first rain we had and we managed to visit the One Pillar pagoda, the Temple of Literature and Hoan Kiem Lake and then back to the hotel to dry off and take a stroll around the old quarter.

Day 30

Another day at leisure and we were really getting the hang of crossing the roads so into the market and more of the old quarter, endless DVD shops and some great places to eat and drink.
Hanoi though, like most of Vietnam is not really made for pedestrians as everyone either lives, eats or drinks on the pavements or simply parks their motorbikes – so you are always having to walk in the roads.

Day 31

Early morning start for the journey to Halong Bay. The pier side was heaving with people waiting to board boats and somehow both you and your luggage gets transported on a tender and loaded aboard a traditional junk. Sadly, the weather was not wonderful but the scenery was stunning and the food terrific. Lunch consisted of 4 fish courses, dinner of 5 fish courses – we were so stuffed!!

Day 32

More limestone karsts – coffee and croissants at 7.00 am and then brunch at 10.00 with as much as you could eat. Our guide was there to meet us at the pier and back we went to Hanoi via more marble factories/shopping opportunities.

Day 33

Morning spent trying to cram all our shopping into our cases before our flight back to Bangkok. Lots of panic but finally it all fitted in. Afternoon more visits to the markets and I bought even more silk……….. Evening flight back to Bangkok.

More days at leisure in Bangkok, more shopping and finally a visit to Wat Pho before our flight back to Istanbul and then back home.
We had a really wonderful time and we can only thank and recommend Selective Asia for arranging, re-arranging it all. Our guides and drivers were wonderful and it just gives you a taste of more things you want to do.